Why haircare moved from a functional to a trend-led beauty category
The beauty industry, like every other, faced some huge challenges and consumer behaviour shifts in 2020.
From booming skincare to struggling cosmetic colour, from DIY nails and brows to at home self care - there were beauty categories that performed well under lockdown, and others that struggled. As time passes, more statistics are being released which highlight these changes in sales trends, demonstrating why haircare became a more trend focused beauty category.
So what are the dynamics within the hair category that are driving consumer engagement? We have identified 3 key drivers: Lockdown Trends, Social Media Buzz and NPD Trends:
Lockdown Hair Trends
Clearpay (a buy now pay later platform) released data on the best selling beauty products in the UK from April-June 2020 and found that a Hair Perfector treatment by Olaplex was the best selling beauty product through their platform during that period. The brands Shampoo and Conditioner bundle was also in the top 10. It seems that when we couldn’t get to salons for our usual hair treatments, we sought refuge in treatments that helped us forget for a moment our roots, grey hair, and split end misery. The goal was healthy hair as we took a break from our usual styling, and treated our hair as part of at-home selfcare regimes.
Alongside pampering hair treatments, many of us reached for the hair dye in lockdown. Superdrug reported a +76% increase in its hair category sales in the early period of the UK CV-19 pandemic, with a boom in home hair dye sales. Pink hair in particular dominated, as we became more experimental while tucked away at home. The DIY beauty trend was a key influence in the haircare category, and if consumers achieved good results with home hair colour then this may continue post-lockdown.
Social Media Buzz
Many hair brands are successfully using social media to create huge buzz about their products, particularly with compelling consumer before/after reviews. In fact, with hero products brands can be built in this space. In 2018 the Coco & Eve Like a Virgin hair mask was inescapable on Instagram, promising hair would be transformed in just 10 minutes and using video content to showcase results.
This isn’t just applicable to hair (Sand and Sky also achieved this with their pink face mask). But with the instant results that some hair products can achieve, social media is a great platform for hair brands in particular, and in 2020 many of us had a bit more time on our hands to research these brands we might not have engaged with before.
Hair influencers and bloggers can create huge followings by offering users styling and haircare tips, and product reviews. Accounts such as @sarahanguis, @Niathelight and @chimmedwards help share knowledge and education on style and care, particularly for specific hair types such as natural, curly hair. In the circumstances of 2020, brands like @joshwoodcolour also successfully used social media to support consumers with home hair colour tips, consultations and treatments. Social media is a great platform for hair, and where new / smaller brands can really drive engagement with the right content.
NPD Trends
Compelling active ingredients and innovative claims has been termed the “skinification” of hair, with treatments and conditioning evolving to showcase new generation tech. Increasingly, skincare brands are expanding out into the hair and scalp treatment market (hello Inkey List!), showcasing their skin and ingredient expertise within new haircare ranges. These are just some of the product stories which are driving interest in the haircare market:
Waterless Hair - WGSN forecasted that with the future concerns for water shortages, “innovation around reducing water usage in beauty products can offer new opportunities for product development”. Whether its easy rinse formulations that need less water, or products that keep hair cleaner for longer, NPD will continue to evolve in this area. Aveda recently released their Foam Reset Rinseless Cleanser, to cleanse, hydrate and condition in between washes, cutting down wash days and water use. The new Omorovicza Scalp Reviver is also designed to revive hair in between washes
Natural Oils - Whether its Avocado, Argan, Rosemary, Peppermint or Black Seed, natural ingredients (especially oils) are a leading hair treatment trend to keep locks shiny and healthy
Scalp Treatments - Haircare has become multi-step, from pre-wash treatments to serums. In particular, “scalp care” is the new skincare, with a huge array of treatment offers which promise to exfoliate, treat itching, flaking or irritation, and promote healthy hair growth
Scrubs: As well as face and body scrubs, hair can also now be exfoliated with formats from brands like Biolage. As well as treating the scalp, they are used to remove the buildup of product in hair to promote health and shine
Caffeine - Marketed as helping to increase blood circulation to promote healthy hair follicles, Caffeine is found in numerous hair treatments to support hair growth. Although this ingredient story has been around for some time, launches continue to utilise this hair hero ingredient
Salicylic Acid - Many skincare enthusiasts will be used to using Salicyclic Acid in their skincare routines, but its also often added in shampoos and scalp treatments. It’s marketed to remove dead skin cells and flakes, and treat itching and dandruff
Solid Bars - From Lush to Ethique, shampoo bars are moving from niche to mainstream, with ever more innovation in this area. With zero plastic packaging, an increased number of washes per purchase vs shampoo bottles, and skincare-style ingredients, solid bars create a compelling case for consumer trial. As long as they are easy to store and use, and deliver great results, then this area of the hair market will thrive
Hair has had a lot of focus in 2020 for both good and bad reasons. When the 2020 pandemic kept us away from hairdressers, many of us realised how much we relied on our hair to help us feel good. However, it was also an opportunity to focus not just on colour, but on giving our hair and scalp a little TLC with healthy hair and scalp treatments, skincare inspired ingredients and new regimes. Will this continue? With all the innovation in this market it will be hard for consumers not to be tempted by trialling something new in this category going forward.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
image Lesley @freshlenghts