Sun, Tan & DHA
Following on from #sunawarenssweek we know that a healthy glow is still high on the agenda for many. Avoid the sun and wear SPF - without question, but is there another way without the risk?
With the Self-tan market is projected to grow US$259 Million from 2019-2027, driven by a CAGR of 4.1% Global interest in sunless tanning is growing and with the regulation of DHA recently in the news, Here we take a look at the ingredient & the evolution of the Self-tan market.
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a Self-tanning ingredient, used in the majority of self-tans you can find on the market, and it is estimated that the annual DHA production has more than doubled from the 2000 tons produced in 2009/2010 to its volume in 2018.
WHAT IS DHA?
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a Glycerin derivative, obtained through microbial fermentation. When DHA is applied to the skin, it reacts and binds with the amino acids found in the dead skin cells in the outermost layer of the skin. This reaction produces melanoids (brown pigments), giving the illusion of a tan that gradually fades over time.
DHA IN THE NEWS
Previously, DHA was not regulated under the Cosmetic Regulations. However, in March 2021, The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) published its final opinion of the safety of the ingredient, stating it should be used at a maximum of 10% in self-tanning products.
The regulation is expected to be published in Q2/Q3 2021 with the following transition periods from entry into force:
+ 6 months non-compliant products shall not be placed on the Union market
+ 9 months non-compliant products shall not be made available on the Union market
This new regulation will only be applicable in the EU and Northern Ireland. Since leaving the EU, The UK will not automatically implement EU SCCS opinions and legislative amendments into the UK Cosmetics Regulation without independent UK scrutiny - MSL
HISTORY OF SUNLESS TANNING
So where did it all begin?
Tanning is thought to have been made popular by style makers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s, when she was photographed supporting a suntan in the French Riviera. However up until then, bronzed skin wasn’t the desired look (a move on from the Victorian society status; you didn’t work outside and therefor your skin was paler).
From the 1920’s onwards, a tan signified that you had spare money and time to sunbathe and the tanning trend was reinforced by the introduction of more revealing swimwear and the rebellious Flapper era. Tanning was a way for women to free themselves from the prior conservative Victorian mindset, just like the uptake of drinking, smoking and dancing.
Although, having bronzed skin wasn’t initially widely adopted by westerners in the early tanning crazes. As a result, skin bleaching became a popular choice to rid of post-holiday tan lines. Elizabeth Arden even offered a “Après L'Été” salon treatment to do just that!
It was in the late 19020’s, when Vogue declared that the ‘Sunburn Movement’ had created a whole new beauty category centred around showing off cinnamon hued tans, the first tanning products started entering the market:
1298 : Jean Patou introduced ‘Huile de Chaldée’, the first tanning oil.
1929 : The ‘Glory Of Sun’ aimed to give women a perfect ‘out of the box” tan, which was essentially all-over skin makeup.
1935 : The Ambre Solaire UV-filtering tanning oil was introduced by L'Oréal.
1940s : Coppertone sunblock was invented (although became hugely popular in 1956 with their ad campaign).
1950’s : DHA was discovered by accident when Eva Wittgenstein noticed that a medicine she had been testing stained patient’s skin, but not clothes.
1978 : The first modern indoor tanning bed was introduced in the U.S
1998: Mystic Tan was the first mainstream version of spray tan to enter the market
Even though the harmful effects of UV rays were known early on, it didn’t stop people from slathering up in oil and heading onto sunbeds and sun lounges to achieve the deepest of tans possible. However, with the extent of our knowledge today of just dangerous UV rays are, it’s no wonder sunless tanning has gained in popularity over the years.
WHY HAS SUNLESS TANNING BECOME SO POPULAR?
55 years after Wittgenstein’s DHA discovery, St Tropez sold out a year's worth of stock of its in‐shower tanning lotion in only one day, clearly showing just how much Self-tan innovations have evolved over the years, and the high consumer demand for newness in the tanning market.
Today, there is really no excuse for a bad tan, thanks to the advancements in formulations containing DHA, but what has changed?
The unnatural tones and uneven colouring that have made many people fall victim to the Oompa Loompa look, is thought to be down to the quality of ingredients and formulation, which has drastically improved over the years. This is first achieved by increasing formulation stability by using ingredients with pH levels compatible to DHA. Also, purer forms of DHA have been made available - powdered DHA is more stable than DHA in an aqueous solution, which can lose up to 25% of its active ingredient when stored at 40 °C for 6 months, versus powdered DHA who’s degradation is negligible.
That ‘burn biscuit’smell which is all too familiar to OG tanners, is down to the reaction between DHA and amino acids. Now, complimentary ingredients can be added to mask the smell. ‘Clean Tan’ uses cardamom seed oil and five aromatic teas as its aroma.
Some studies claim that DHA can promote premature skin aging due the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres when the DHA reacts with amino acids. However, now sunless tanners can be formulated with powerful ingredients to reduce free radicals. This gives a longer lasting, enhanced tan and even tone, without the negative effects of skin aging.
Improved formulations, breakthrough innovation’s and our our ever increasing awareness of UV photodamage will certainly continue to support the growth of sunless tanning!
As covered in our blog on Why is SPF so Important, last year 35% of people in the UK were burnt at least once. So, is this caused by a lack of awareness to the sun’s effects or an overwhelming desire to catch a bit of sun to give that glow so many crave? It feels like DHA is a key ingredient that gives us the right solution, but important to remember that SPF is always needed no matter what. Baz Lurhmann, was of course, absolutely right about that (and it would appear so much more)!
Interested in developing Self-Tan? We could honestly talk about this one for hours - get in touch and we can take you through our thoughts on tan new launch opportunities.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH