THE INNOVATOR ARTICLES
A QUICK GUIDE TO DEVELOPING A NEW BEAUTY PRODUCT
Want to launch a new beauty brand, or wondering how to grow your existing one? Don’t know where to start?
We’re a small but mighty team of beauty industry experts, who love working with entrepreneurs to help bring their brands to life.
A BIT ABOUT US
Sam, our lovely founder, has a wealth of experience working for beauty retailers and design agencies, and has built a team of experienced product development specialists to offer a full end-to-end service for a success beauty launch.
So where do conversations usually start with our clients looking to bring their beauty ideas to life? The most important stage of all - THE PRODUCT BRIEF….
BUILDING THE BRIEF
The quality of a beauty product brief developed at the beginning of any beauty development launch will define how smoothly the project runs.
We aim to walk through all aspects of a new product brief that will define a clear vision for the product, from concept creation through to carton board spec. Whether its claims, ingredient traceability or fragrances, we aim to outline what really matters to each unique product and brand. This process often helps to drive forward innovation and help make sure the product really stands out against the competition.
BUDGETS AND COMMERCIALS
Spending time at the beginning of a project discussing all potential project costs is key. Honesty and transparency is key here so that we rule out what isnt going to add value, and make sure we cover off all the must-have spend with clear reasoning of why its needed.
FINDING THE RIGHT MANUFACTURING PARTNER
Whether the priorities are COG, sustainable credentials or the manufacturer location to support supply chain requirements, its key that the brand and manufacturer are aligned in values and expectations.
Often the response to brief from manfacturers will give an early indication on who really “gets” you and your brief, and what you want to achieve. You may be working with the manufacturer for many years so its important to get this decision right!
DESIGN
The exciting bit! The look and feel of any beauty product cannot be underestimated. It showcases who the product is targeted at, the quality of the product, the sustainability ethos of the brand…basically it’s key to nail this for your brand launch.
At this stage you also need to be clear on your vision for key messaging on your product is critical e.g. product claims and brand comms. We can support you to create a knock-out brief for a designer to get to work. We also have some amazing design partners who have years of experience working on beauty product design, so you can land a on-brand pack design to grab your customers attention vs the competition.
PROJECT MANAGEMENT
So you’ve got your brand positioning, product brief and manufacturing partner lined up. What comes next?
From formulation and packaging approval, critical paths, claims testing regulatory support, artwork creation…..every aspect of a beauty product launch needs to be managed to launch on time and on budget. We can help you plan for what to expect and how to keep your launch on track.
SETTING UP FOR A SUCCESSFUL LAUNCH
As a skincare brand owner herself (hi Clear Skin Days!) Sam Murton has first hand experience on what is needed to set up for a strong brand launch.
From website creation, sales support for beauty bricks and mortar and e-retailers, warehousing services, drop-ship services, introductions to beauty PR partners, amazon account support - basically we can help with anything that you might need outside of the actual product launch to help hit your commercial targets. Even if you have already created your product, we work with existing brand owners to help elevate your brand in market.
ANYTHING ELSE YOU NEED!
Product photography? Product mock-ups? Translations? Anything that you might need to support your beauty brand is possible.
If you would like to find out more about the beauty coaching and beauty support services we can provide get in touch for a chat.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LAUNCH A NEW BEAUTY PRODUCT?
For any new beauty brand, one of the first challenges they will come up against is trying to plan a firm launch date for their new product range.
So what sort of timings should you plan for when developing a new beauty product launch??
For years brands, suppliers and retailers have been quoted as saying it takes at least two years to develop beauty products. On the other hand, there are fast beauty brand who have launched in just a matter of months.
So, who is right? The answer is both - it depends on what you need and when you need it.
If you are looking at a major launch within a big corporate operation it could take two years or even more. There are often months of consumer research, concept ideation & testing, many stakeholders to engage and numerous boards to present to. This process alone can take a year, and you haven’t even started to develop the products.
Timing will also be dictated by the type of product you want to develop. If you are working on the next breakthrough in clinically proven anti-ageing you can go through months or even years of creating formulas, testing these and not achieving the results you need to. Or, if you want to develop a monograph product (a US registered drug such as SPF) there is a minimum testing requirement that can put development lead times up to 18 months!
The issue with taking two years is that you are missing out on trends and ingredients that are created, realised and done before the year is out. So how do you do it quicker?
The answer could be that the manufacturers have done the leg work for you. They have their own laboratories and scientists whose sole role it is to create the next generation beauty products - they are looking at the same trends as you and fantasising over the possibilities with the newest ingredients. If these ready to go / off-the-shelf products tick the boxes of your brief, then go for it! Don’t feel the need to tinker with something they have spent months crafting and perfecting.
The other way to improve your speed to launch is to work with one of these ready to go products but tweak (with something that is essential to your brand or consumer of course). This might be a shade of lipstick inspired by the catwalk or an ingredient that has to be present in all of your brand’s products. By working with formulations that are already developed and tested you not only reduce your development time but also your risk.
In summary, yes you can develop a product in a few months, or it can take 2 years. It all depends on whether your product simply needs to hit a current trend, and you can source a great ready-to-go product from a manufacturer, or whether you want to develop something truly innovative in the market.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
WHY IS EVERYONE TALKING ABOUT THE SKIN BARRIER?
With over 2.5bnviews on Tiktok the #skinbarrier is big news in the skincare industry right now.
Whether it’s at the core of new skincare product development, being discussed by influencers and beauty press, or being heavily researched by consumers who want to know more about it, the skin barrier has gone beyond a trend and moved into a core pillar of the skincare industry.
So what is it, and why is the skin barrier such a huge topic?
THE ROLE OF THE SKIN BARRIER
To understand why the barrier such a focus, it’s important to look at the fundamental role it plays in overall skin health. It’s the bodies first line of defence and has two vital roles:
Hydration - Internally regulates water loss and retains moisture, ensuring water and electrolytes do not evaporate from the skin
Protection - Externally shields from external aggressors such as bacteria, chemicals, pollutants, irritants & UV
WHAT IS THE SKIN BARRIER?
The barrier is in the outermost level of our skin within the Stratum Corneum in the Epidermis. Contained in the skin barrier are 3 main layers:
The Lipid barrier, which is protected by our Acid Mantle and above this is our Microbiome:
Microbiome - The skin microbiome is the billions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses that comprise the skin microbiota. The natural bacteria maintains the skin’s immunity and prevents pathogenic growth
Acid mantle - The Hydrolipidic film on the skin's surface made from sweat and sebum that has a pH of around 5.5. It's acidic nature acts as barrier to unwanted bacteria. It also supports a balanced microbiome and locks in hydration
Lipid barrier - Composed of Ceramides, Cholesterol & Free Fatty Acids, it supports the skin barrier function by reducing Trans-Epidermal Water Loss and protects from external chemicals, pollutants, irritants & UV
If a skin barrier is healthy then skin should feel at its best - soft, supple and hydrated. Likewise, the cause and effect of a #damagedbarrier is under the spotlight and is linked to a wide range of skin issues.
A DAMAGED SKIN BARRIER
What does this mean when our skin barrier is compromised? Well, unfortunately it can lead to a wide range of skin concerns:
Cracks in the Lipid Matrix can allow irritants such as bacteria to penetrate skin, leading to breakouts. Gaps can also allow water to escape which can cause skin to become dehydrated
A disrupted microbiome can lead to an imbalance between the beneficial and harmful bacteria, resulting in skin conditions such as acne and rosacea
An imbalanced pH can lead to an overgrowth of bacteria, leading to skin irritations such acne & dryness
With the range of skin concerns linked a disrupted barrier, no wonder the skincare industry is heavily focused on barrier repair. As a result, new launches are coming thick and fast from all skincare brands which will continue into 2023.
So, if barrier health has always been so important, and so many varied skin concerns can be linked back to a disrupted barrier, why is it such a topic of conversation now in the skincare industry?
SKIN BARRIER TREND INFLUENCERS
The long standing wellness movement helped to drive a focus on skin health rather than just skin aesthetics. Multiple skin wellness trends have since emerged, such as pre/pro/post biotic skincare for a healthy microbiome and the embracing of ceramides through brands like CeraVe to promote skin health. The foundation of all these skin-wellness trends is always taking care of the skin barrier
#skinimalism has driven a change in brand and consumer behaviour. Complicated, multi-step skincare routines fell out of favour during the pandemic, driven by factors such as more mindful purchasing and concerns that high strength layered ingredients were irritating skin. The push for simplicity helped the industry to really hone in on solving the root cause of skin conditions, supporting again the focus on the skin barrier
Protecting skin from external aggressors has been a long standing mission in skincare industry e.g. through SPF, pollution shields, blue light shields and wide-spread use of antioxidants. Promoting a healthy skincare barrier has naturally emerged from this, helping to nurture and strengthen your skins natural defences against external irritants
The viral #cleangirl aesthetic showed off fresh-faced beauty on Tiktok, ideally with minimal makeup, which again focused attention on the goal of naturally healthy skin. The conversation around the skin barrier has blown up on Tiktok, which will continue into 2024 and beyond
We hope that’s helped to break down the need-to-knows on the skin barrier.
The great news for our skin is that improving barrier health will continue to be a focus in skincare industry for the foreseeable future.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR OWN BEAUTY BRAND
Beauty is big business.
Globally worth around $528 billion, the BeAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE market is now fully democratised with tradtional beauty powerhouse brands existing alongside celebrity brands, retailer own labels and market disrupting entreprenuers.
If you have the passion and budget, the beauty market is open to anyone who dreams of owning their own beauty business.
So if you are thinking about taking the first steps on your beauty brand journey, we thought it would good to share some thoughts on what to plan for first. As a team with decades of beauty development experience with large global retailers as well as beauty start-ups, we have experienced and worked through many bumps in the end-to-end product development journey.
So, where do you start?
BRAND DEVELOPMENT
When you have a spark of an idea, spend quality time working through your brand vision and plan.
What will your brand stand for and what are its values? Who is the target customer and why? Where will your brand be positioned in the market vs its competitors?
Laying down the brand foundations at the beginning, and understanding what will make it stand out from a crowd, is vital to set a clear path ahead and anchor all the decisions you make in the future.
BUDGET
Speak to an experienced product developer early on to understand the sort of costs involved in launching a beauty brand. There are many areas of costs to be aware of and factor into budgets at the outset - from regulatory support through to website creation. The more questions you ask at the beginning of your project will make sure you can set up your product brief and launch for success.
It may also be helpful to reach out to other beauty entrepreneurs to make sure you have a view of what costs to expect. Many in the beauty industry are happy to share their experiences! This will help to ensure you are going into your beauty launch with your eyes open and aren’t caught out late into your project.
TIMINGS
Depending on the type of beauty product you are planning to create, its important to be aware of timings. Even if you take off-the-shelf formulations, packaging and raw materials can be on leadtimes of up to 16 weeks. For new formulations testing will take 3 months, and for true innovation or SPF products you may find that project leadtimes stretch to 18+ months.
Once you know more about the leadtimes expected to develop a new range, work with a product developer to draft a project timeplan with deadlines for all key activities, and set a clear, realistic launch date to drive the pace of your decisions.
PRODUCT BRIEF
When drafting your brief for your product launch, think about every aspect of the formulation that matters to you. Whether its formulation claims (e.g. vegan), texture or fragrance, you need a clear idea about what you are looking for and what is going to matter to your customer. Then when you speak to product and formulation developers, you have the foundations of your product ready to build upon.
Understanding what markets you want to launch is is important to consider at this stage as well. This will make sure your formulators take into account the relevant regulatory compliance for that region.
If the first attempts don’t meet your vision, spend the time revisiting the brief and making sure you know what want to improve so you can give the clearest feedback possible.
For packaging do your research with experienced developers to understand what are your must-haves and what are your nice-to-haves. Sustainability will be one of the first things to discuss. Go out to beauty stores to look at whats out there in the market, so you can pull together examples of the sorts of packs you do and don’t like. This will set up conversations with your developer about what is going to work within your budget.
Finally, have a clear idea on your RRP, margin and target cost of goods. This will help make sure you achieve the best possible product within your budget.
MANUFACTURING PARTNER
An experienced product development agency will have a trusted network of manufacturing partners across the globe. This means you can issue your product brief to a number of manufacturers and select the best partner for you based on response to brief.
Make sure you know what to expect around things like production tolerances, management of excess components and payment terms. Standard terms and ways of working can vary, so having an early conversation on this means that you and your manufacturing partner are on the same page from the outset.
LAUNCH PLAN
Understanding which markets you want to target is really key not only to shape your product brief, but also to set up the right conversations with retailers and distributors. What are your priorities for launch markets, and where do you want to focus in the future?
Again, speak to industry experts about setting up for retailer conversations so you know what sort of questions to prepare for. The earlier you start these conversations the better so you can shape your launch plans early.
Take the time to find the right partners for PR, marketing and website development. There is no point coming up with an amazing product if nobody knows it exists!
We hope this helps with getting started on your beauty brand journey - it’s an amazing industry which we love working in!
If you would like some support delivering your beauty range to market, please get in touch for chat.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
TIKTOK BEAUTY HACKS – THE WEIRD, USELESS AND DOWNRIGHT DANGEROUS
AhhH social media, the place where everything appears believable, all seems possible, and sometimes people will quite literally try ANYTHING!
We consumers have always been on the hunt for a hint, trick or tip that’s going to make our lives that little bit easier, and then along came TikTok to revolutionise the world of beauty hacks!
But is erection cream really the next lip plumper and will garlic cloves actually relieve sinus pain, or are hundreds of consumers putting their health at risk with these bizarre beauty tips?
Here is a countdown of our dubious TikTok beauty hack highlights…
GARLIC NOSE
Not strictly beauty, but this ‘wellness hack’ by Rozaline Katherine gained millions of views for apparently helping clear out your sinus by stuffing garlic cloves up each nostril for 15 mins, which when removed, causes your nose to run. Experts were quick to advise against this hack; not only is there the possibility of things getting stuck where they shouldn’t, but the reason your nose runs so extremely is because the garlic cloves irritate the nasal lining...Best to stick to vapor rubs to clear sinus’ we think!
VAGINAL STEAMING
Another trend that has gained millions of views advises women that squatting over hot water mixed with herbs will improve the smell of your vagina and fertility. As pointed out by Cosmo, Vagina’s are self-cleaning organs that do their own thing, and this steaming practice will upset the delicate PH balance. It definitely cannot help with fertility issues…so lets leave steaming to facials!
GLYCOLIC ACID DEODORANT
A much-loved ingredient for smooth and glowing skin, but what is it doing under our pits I hear you ask?! The hashtag #glycolicacidasdeodorant has racked up over 5.3 million views on TikTok for apparently preventing body odour, stopping sweating & reducing pigmentation.
But is there any science to back up these Tiktokers’ fresh pits claims? Well, Glycolic acid is said to lower the pH of the underarm, creating an inhospitable environment for odour-causing bacteria. However, Refinery 29 explains that this hasn’t been substantiated, and water from sweat will neutralise glycolic acid which reduces any benefits.
We know that Glycolic Acid is effective at reducing pigmentation when used 2-3 per times per week on our face. However, we also know that it’s not usually recommended for sensitive skin. So considering the sensitive nature of our pits, there’s likely to be other products designed for underarm odour which may be more suitable than glycolic acid!
With mixed reviews, and concern around suitability, efficacy and safety, we think there are more effective ways of naturally deodorising our armpits….Plus, the tingle on our face can be irritating enough, let alone that sensation on our underarms!
SUNSCREEN CONTOUR
It’s safe to say that we’re a generation obsessed with sunscreen! And, as if the beauty world wasn’t outraged enough by Gwyneth Paltrow's sunscreen tips, sunscreen contour became another application method to polarise consumers.
Beyonce’s makeup artist first suggested the method in 2016, and this later took off thanks to Eli Withrow when she shared her ‘naturally snatched’ look. This consisted of using SPF50 on the highlights of her face to block more UV rays, and SPF 30 on the shadows of her face, therefore allowing a deeper tan to develop. In theory, creating a ‘naturally’ contoured look.
The technique assumes that you can control the sun’s exposure through varying SPF levels, which is highly unlikely considering that all areas of the face will be exposed to different levels of sunlight. Instead, the method will probably result in a patchy tan and sunburn.
Also, and more importantly, there is no such thing as a healthy tan! Byrdie reminds us that exposing skin to more UV will help us age faster, expose to radiation more, and sacrifice to skin cancer. Therefore it’s important to follow expert advice when it comes to sunscreen application and avoid any ‘hacks’ which suggest using them differently to recommended….best to stick to the cream contour method.
While this has been a quick look into the potential dangers of misinformation, it doesn’t detract from how influential Tiktok has become in the world of beauty. Even Refinery 29 have a dedicated series all about tiktok hacks called Beauty In A Tik, where each week editors put TikTok's viral beauty hacks and innovative trends to the test.
As trends and hacks become a bigger part of our relationship with beauty, consumers have loved discovering new beauty tips on TikTok that really works for them. However, we think this will increasingly be balanced by education from trusted professionals to help filter out the positive from the negative advice.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Spotlight: The beauty subscription boom
Royal Mail has reported that 26% of Brits are now signed up to subscription boxes, either for themselves or as a gift for others. The value of this market in the UK is predicted to be £1.8 billion by 2025.
The pandemic over the last 18 months massively accelerated this trend as consumers limited trips outside the home to shop. Whether it’s coffee, candles, boxer shorts, laundry tabs, weekly meals, or shaving gear, subscription boxes are big business.
So what’s driving the success and what are the opportunities for the beauty industry?
We take a closer look….
The History of Subscriptions
Subscription models have been around since the 17th century, based on anything from signing up to regular deliveries of drinking water to book clubs. In the 1970s subscription TV was launched, and in the 2000s came subscription boxes. Today, the biggest sector is food and drink, with recipe services and pre-prepared meal deliveries worth £1 billion in the UK. Health and beauty subscription boxes have also boomed and are forecasted to be worth £92 million by 2025, with 11% of UK shoppers signed up to a health & beauty subscription box service.
So what has powered this success story?
Convenience: The most obvious benefit is convenience. Subscription models offer a time-saving, hassle free option, especially for regular use of replenishment products like razors or deodorants
Discovery: Consumers can trial products from brands they may never have discovered themselves if not stocked their usual retailers e.g. beer box subscriptions showcasing small, independent breweries. The expert curation also appeal to those who may be overwhelmed with choice in crowded markets
Value: Subscription boxes often promote the value saving of their offer e.g. save £60 vs purchasing individually
Gifting: With a subscription available for nearly anything, tailored time period options to suit any budget, and delivery to the lucky recipients door, subscription boxes make perfect gifts (or, lets face it, self treats)
The Beauty Players
Birchbox was launched in 2010, pioneered by Katia Beauchamp and Hayley Barna, aiming to reach customers who didn’t have the time, interest or expertise in shopping beauty themselves. For a monthly fee, customers could trial curated edits by beauty experts at home through sample and travel sized products, with full sized products available to buy on their online store if you discovered a product you loved. However, over the years Birchbox has struggled against rising competition as more and more players such as Glossybox entered the market. Retailers have increasingly got in on the act too, with brands like Look Fantastic, Lush, Sephora and Walmart all running subscription schemes.
Launched in 2016 by Marcia Kilgore, Beauty Pie has taken the beauty subscription model in a different direction. For a monthly membership fee, subscribers can access exclusive discounted pricing vs non-members, with the ambition of providing DTC high-end beauty products without the usual industry mark-up. A loyal membership base, know as the #PIEFAM, has quickly been established and growth shows no sign of slowing - Glossy reported that between April 20-21 Beauty Pies revenue grew in the UK by +100% and it’s membership doubled.
Beauty subscriptions thrive even the luxury end of the market, without the need for traditional expensive beauty counters and consultants. Both Cohorted and Mintdbox offers the chance to receive edits from exclusive, high end brands like Sunday Riley and VERSO which may not be available on every high street.
Beauty Subscription Trends
With endless choices of beauty boxes now available, brands are increasingly diversifying to create points of difference and build customer appeal. So what are some of the secrets to success?
Collaborations
It’s hard to find a beauty boxes that doesn’t feature a collaboration now, with brands like Glossybox teaming up with partners like Grazia to add credibility to the curated edits. The hype around the Caroline Hirons beauty boxes (although not subscription) demonstrates that consumers value a well regarded industry expert to help select the very best products for them in crowded markets. This also helps to keep the offer fresh for longer term subscribers.
Personalisation
Subscription offers also give customers the opportunity to personalise their experience, whether its selecting boxes tailored to skin type, usage need (e.g. summer skin), vegan beauty or signing up to personalised formulation services like Skin + Me with bespoke skincare solutions sent to your door. US based Atolla tailor skincare routines using assessments and skin tests to create personalised skin solutions, which are continually assessed to maintain the progress of your skincare routine.
The beauty personalisation trend has been around for years, but was always difficult to execute in bricks-and-mortar retail space. Subscription models offer a convenient and cost effective solution to this without having to try and navigate what’s right for you when in stood in front of endless rows of products in store.
Supplements
Beauty supplements, seen with brands like Dewty, have also become increasingly popular through subscription models, encouraging healthy habits and routines by taking away the barriers of remembering to buy and take them. Supplements also work well for this sort of longer term model because consumers will need to take for a period of time before benefiting.
Male Grooming Boxes
The male market has welcomed the move towards subscription boxes to meet the consumer demand for straightforward, convenient replenishment for purchases like shaving, and its big business. Unilever bought The Dollar Shave club for $1 billion in 2016, and in 2019 (just 6 years after forming!) Harry’s shaving firm was bought by the owner of Wilkinson Sword for $1.4 billion. However, that’s not to say that male boxes are just focused on convenience, with brands like Toppbox offering a top to toe grooming experience.
So what’s next?
There are certainly no signs that the subscription boom is going to stall. Emarsys research found that in the US 32% of 16-24 year olds in the US have a subscription, and Royal Mails UK 2019 research found 52% of 25-34 year olds were signed up to a service. With younger generations embracing this model the long term prospects are bright. Businesses are also addressing barriers to subscriptions by making it easier to tailor your plans cost and cancellation options.
Even without the benefits of convenience and time, there is something pretty lovely about something arriving through your letterbox every month that isn’t just a bill.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Responsibility
Brand responsibility may seem to be a topic well covered, but when 80% of millennials and Gen Zer’s globally believe that governments and businesses need to make greater efforts to protect the environment (Stylus), it shows just how far the beauty industry still has to go in its efforts to tackle its contribution to the climate crisis. And QUICK. Beauty brands are rapidly losing consumer’s trust. Only 51% of young people worldwide see business as a force for good, dramatically down from 76% in 2017.
And it’s with good reasons young consumers feel the way they do, as the beauty industry has some staggering statistics…
THE STATS
120 billion units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, most of which isn’t recycled
Perfumes, hairsprays and deodorants pollute the environment as much as car emissions
Ingredients like Palm oil, which is used in approximately half of all consumer goods, contribute to an estimated loss of 18 million acres of forest annually
Water shortages are predicted to impact two-thirds of the world’s population by 2025, with water making up 70-80% of most beauty formulas
As Beauty Brand Coaches, these statistics remind us of the significant role we need to play in helping to encourage change in the industry.
Within our 2021 trends report we explore the consumer, environmental and market insights influencing this crisis, and how beauty brand Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) strategies can make positive changes to re-connect with customers. Given the scale of this issue, which is ever evolving, our blog is just a snapshot of the 5 key responsibility themes that were front of mind in the first half of 2021. However, if you would light to discuss in more detail please get in touch for further insight analysis.
The 5 themes we explored are:
GREATER TRANSPARENCY
PACKAGING
NATURAL PERCEPTION
USAGE & BEHAVIOURS
TOTAL PRODUCTION PROCESS
GREATER TRANSPARENCY
Beauty Buzzwords
There is a need for higher levels of transparency from brands as consumers want more meaningful information to help with product purchases and avoid misinformation. Most apparent is the shift in terminology to avoid beauty buzzwords and phrases which can mislead consumers. Sustainability & other environmental phrases are done. Allure announced its prohibited use of 'recyclable', 'earth-friendly’ and 'eco friendly' and Mintel are curbing sustainable phrases, suggesting that the term is overused and impactless. After a review by the EU commission into marketing greenwashing language (making claims about positive environmental impacts which were misleading), 42% of environmental claims were found to be false or exaggerated, and 59% were unsupported by evidence. Legislation will be put in place in 2021 to require brands to substantiate environmental footprint claims as a result, and the UK is likely to follow with it’s own future legislation. And we take note, suitably naming our trend ‘Responsibility.’
Contrasting to this, ‘clean’ & ‘natural’ are just some of the unregulated claims that are growing in both popularity, and there is the assumption that these are better for the environment despite real understanding or clarity around the claims.
Taking ‘clean’ for instance - 58% of women globally feel that clean beauty means a product is natural. However “What does clean skincare mean?" was one of the most Googled searches of 2020! This shows how much consumer confusion there is around widely used claims and terminologies. There remains a huge opportunity to introduce clarity, common understanding and credibly proven CSR policies across the whole of the beauty industry.
Environmental reporting
Brands are also being challenged to increase their environmental reporting as consumers seek more transparency on environmental measures relating to the total product cycle. Noticeably, Carbon Footprint & Handprint, Supply chain traceability and Water Footprint seem to be the main measures brands are reporting.
It’s important to recognise your 'Responsible USP('s)' i.e. what you are doing to be more environmentally friendly, and use specific measures to inform customers of this positive benefit. Packaging can be a great way to engage with consumers. Using a water alternative or carbon neutral? Tell customers about this great work, and educate about both the pros and cons to continue to support informed consumer choice.
2. PACKAGING
Packaging alternatives
Packaging is the most tangible aspect of the product with which consumers interact, so it's understandable that plastic has been the leading focus for most brands to reduce. By 2025, 100% of the plastics used in L'Oréal's products' packaging will be either from recycled or bio-based sources. In order to hit such targets, brands need to explore packing innovations that reduce our reliance on plastic.
Carbon positive Cork, compostable Mycelium and zero waste Soap are some of the most interesting breakthrough materials being explored in the market currently. Whilst some are more industrialised than others, we think that there is no one perfect solution when it comes to making packaging more responsible. Instead, brands need to take a flexible approach across a range of solutions, and the most important thing is to use resources responsibly, which relies on the industry working sensibly together across packaging innovations.
Closing the cycle
Wider than the packaging material itself, brands need to look at further closing the cycle.
Offsetting is an easy way for brands to contribute and whilst it doesn't fix the root cause, it is still a way to make a difference. Similarly, using schemes that help to recycle and clean up plastic waste are relatively simple ways in which brands can better contribute to the environment. Stores can also play a part in the full consumer journey by implementing refill sections and recycling points in store to inspire repeat visits - the John Lewis BeautyCycle scheme is just one example of this.
3. NATURAL PERCEPTION
Science meets Nature
Evolving on from the Clean Beauty movement, 'Cleanical' is the growing clean science trend, which combines 'clean' and 'clinical' - lab-grown 'natural' ingredients for powerful and proven results. Whilst the clean element of this trend is still not well defined, we think that the natural-science combo is very interesting. This is because innovative and sustainable formulations can be made when combining scientific knowledge with natural ingredients. New extraction techniques, stabilising methods and delivery systems can boost the power of natural ingredients, or even replicate them in labs. By utilising natural beauty with science, it will help to reduce the impact on our planet.
However, when 70% of US consumers aged 18–29 would rather use natural, organic cosmetics (Statista), it shows that there is still the belief that natural is best. Even though experts are clear that this isn't the case, brands must take the opportunity to educate on the safety and the benefits of non-natural ingredients.
How else can brands reinvent Natural?
Wild harvesting is a trend on the rise, which considers the seasonality of the plant, unlike normal AYR harvesting. Circumference NYC aims to preserve the biodiversity of plants by avoiding intense agricultural practices and the use of chemicals.
Another fascinating concept is made-to-order beauty, which sees brands growing and manufacturing only what they need based on orders received. Whilst this may result in limited sales, it's certainly a premium offer that takes away the headache of forecasting and can give customers a sense of exclusivity.
Brands should think about how NPD plans could support the natural harvest cycle. There could be opportunities for more localised launches that showcase homegrown ingredients for smaller collections, such as limited editions and bespoke gifts.
4. BEHAVIOURS AND USAGE
Regime rationing
Interestingly, we’re starting to see the backlash of excessive product layering, as consumers start to really understand the benefits of cutting back regimes, not only on environmental consumption & waste, but to also improve their skin and hair. Simplified regimes (highlighted by Pinterests call-out in 2021 for skinimalism) which focus on the essentials can instead rely on the skins natural ability to rejuvenate, resulting in a healthy skin barrier and glowing complexion.
As well as slimming down on regimes, we’re also seeing ingredient lists shrink, as brands realise that cutting out excess and focusing only the key essentials can give amazing results.
How else are consumers regimes being rethought?
Consumers are more willing than ever to adapt their lifestyles to be more environmentally friendly, so it is a great time for brands to challenge the regime norms to make beauty habits more responsible. Reusable formats, at-home activation, waterless technologies are all popular ways in which consumers are adapting lifestyles to be become more responsible.
5. TOTAL PRODUCTION PROCESS
Sourcing and raw materials
Taking a local approach to sourcing allows brands to have an authentic story and helps to reduce environmental impact when production is localised. However, it's not only about harvesting local ingredients but also what brands give back to the environment and community. Haeckels encourages coastline clear-ups, rewarding volunteers with free products. A great example of the respect and consideration they have for their local area & community.
By-product beauty
Whilst a USP for brands such as Upcircle (who are leading the way in creating a positive impact from waste materials), the by-product trend will become something every brand should utilise as more attention is given to close product cycle loops. This can be with manufacturers, as they look to other industries to create circular economies, but also at home with post-consumer use. Brands need to think about how product waste can be used to better impact the environment.
SUMMARY
We have reviewed just 5 of the dynamics influencing the responsibility movement, but this is wide-reaching and ever-evolving industry issue. Our key learning is to keep moving forward, as taking no action while we wait for “perfect” solutions is no longer an option. Brands have a responsibility to continually educate themselves on the latest positive technologies in the market, and build consumer education to allow them to make informed choices. For more information and ideas on brand and product responsibility please get in touch to chat!
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Self Expression and Beauty at the Olympics
Self-expression isn’t a common topic of conversation when it comes to the Olympic Games and athletes in general. However for some it is a symbol of confidence and a representation of their personality.
It can been seen in a number of formats, whether it is a hair colour, nail art, accessories, or lipstick; many female athletes are starting to incorporate this into their sports.
Why do female athletes wear makeup?
Throughout the history of the Olympic Games there has only been a handful of athletes that push the boundaries and create their own style in their field. Most famously, track star Flo Jo dazzled the world with her six-inch acrylic nails and one-legged leotards back in the 1980’s, where she smashed world records in her mark for 100m sprints. In the 1988 games Flo Jo became the first Black woman to win four medals at a single game. For this record-breaking day, she had a special set of nails on, including bedazzled red, white and blue nails, representing Team USA and two gold nails, symbolising her hope of bringing home the gold (White, 2021).
Flo Jo’s influence has rippled through the Olympics ever since, with more and more athletes using cosmetics and colour to express their personalities. The rising star Sha’Carri Richardson has recently grown attention for her long acrylic nails, eyelash extensions and fiery orange hair not to mention her record breaking sprinting skills. Richardson said her standout hair colour symbolises "running on fire" and was chosen by her girlfriend. Other track athletes are bringing their style to the starting line including high jumper Vashti Cunningham, who adopted the black cat-eye eyeliner as she secured her place on team USA. Another high jumper, Rachel McCoy, rocked her matching pink hair with her uniform during her fourth-place performance (Flanagan, 2021)
There has been controversy surrounding female athletes and makeup in the Olympic games, with spectators claiming it is a distraction for others and that they are not taking their sport seriously. This is far from the truth for the majority. According to former Olympian Queen Harrison, lipstick is source of strength, creativity, and expression. For Harrison, she embraced the ‘you look good, you feel good, you perform good’ attitude. Her goal is not to see how much makeup she needs to wear in order to be noticed; it’s really about what makes her feel beautiful and fierce when looking in the mirror. In her words “You won’t ever catch me at a meet without makeup. It’s part of my uniform now, and it’s a performance. You’d never see Beyoncé at a performance with no makeup on.” (Harrison, 2018). Similarly, Christina Clemons smashed her 100-Meter Hurdle Trials race with shining clips tucked into her hair and fun Cool Ranch Doritos earrings dangling from her ears. In the past she has also worn butterfly clips, fuzzy scrunchies, dark lipstick, and embellished barrettes while sailing over the finish line.
No matter the personal reason, there’s one common theme each woman shares when it comes to putting on their face and accessorising for the Olympics: self-expression.
Although self-expression is growing within the Olympics, there are also some individuals who are being penalised due to hair types and showing political support. Committee’s behind these sports have impacted athletes performance and personal space with their laws and regulations. Back in 2013, a couple of Swedish athletes wore rainbow-painted nails to support pride and gay rights at the IAAF World Athletics Championship. The Huffington Post noted that, "While the International Olympic Committee's rules do not explicitly bar rainbow colours— a well-known symbol of gay pride— its charter does specify that no political propaganda is 'permitted in any Olympic sites, venues or other areas.'" Of course, this rule also extends to every other Olympic event. (Hayes, 2016). This caused large amounts of protest and upset with the public and shows how the Olympics is still strict on groups of individuals or celebrations.
As well as pride being penalised, the Black community have been set back recently in Aquatics. Alice Dearing, the first black female swimmer to represent Britain in the Olympics, wanted to use the ‘Soul Cap’ swimming cap for her races. The product, ‘Soul Cap’, is meant to accommodate thicker, curlier hair textures to provide a better fit and protect hair from chlorine. However, members of the International Swimming Federation, known as FINA banned the use of this product as it does not follow “the natural form of the head.” The cap is designed with extra room at the crown to fit more voluminous natural hairstyles like braids, locks, and Afros. The average swimming cap is too small and for many black athletes they find themselves pulling it down constantly and they pull on the edges of their hair. This is an unfamiliar disadvantage for many athletes as they are unaware of the struggles this community face day-to-day, even beyond the world of elite athletics, legislation surrounding what is and is not acceptable for Black hair has been policed and their struggles not recognised. (Brown, 2021)
“For competitions, I’m always excited and full of confidence, so I like to show up with bold looks. I believe it’s important to show our femininity while being athletic because it is a strength, not a weakness.”
Female athletes have also been impacted by committees laws with Norway’s female handball team being fined as a punishment for wearing shorts instead of bikini bottoms. Traditionally, the women's team must wear bikini bottoms to certain measurements, the criteria being they must be 'a close fit'. The rules regarding the bikini bottoms are extremely strict with each one having to be 'cut on an upward angle toward the top of the leg' and a side depth of no more than 10 centimetres. Meanwhile male players get to wear shorts. This shows how much the committees are impacting the Olympic games which are meant to be a celebration of countries and talent but is being discriminatory to groups of individuals.
Influencer, AK Brown said that "In a lot of these spaces, even in athletics, we are expected to tone down our creativity and more, it's almost like code switching for us when we go into our 9-to-5, we either dress down or we don't use the colloquial terms that we would use around fellow Black people. We're not able to express ourselves through our creative culture." (Garcia, 2021). There is still a feeling of inequality and an inability to express yourself in the black community when amongst other ethnic groups. The level of excellence in the Olympic games should not be defined by your ethnic group or hair type. All these athletes have come together to represent their country, and all have one thing in common: talent. So why are some being punished?
This year's Olympic Trials have ignited many emotions, but one thing's for certain: the colour of your skin, hair, and nails doesn't stop you from being excellent - far from it!
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HAIR TRENDS 2021
In 2020, our social feeds were awash with pictures of DIY home haircuts and dye jobs (sometimes with mixed success), with many of us truly appreciating how much we relied on professionals to feel like ourselves.
Quite rightly, The British Beauty Council have launched their #ohhellobeauty campaign to get us all back into the salons, but as we approach the halfway point of 2021, we wanted to take a look at the standout trends that have been defining haircare at home this year and what’s on the horizon for autumn/winter 21.
KEEP IT CASUAL
An Ipsos Mori survey in April 2021 found that 3 out of 5 of us in the UK were happier with a more casual approach to their appearance, with a third less likely to style their hair as a result of the changes we made to our lifestyles during the pandemic. It seems like we are not ready to let go of our messy buns just yet, especially as many are expecting the hybrid home / office working model to continue for the foreseeable future. So what does that mean for the haircare industry?
Low maintenance hairstyles dominate, with shaggy bobs, curtain bangs and ready-to-go mullets key examples of this effortless look trend. Likewise, in terms of colour some of us got used to our roots in 2020 and have moved to a softer balayage in 2021, or have embraced their natural grey (see @salihughes for inspiration on this). In terms of products, quick-fix dry shampoo will continue to be a well loved format for consumers looking for time saving hair routines with Revolution Beauty recently entering this category. Innovation will expand in this category - see the Carter+Jane Scalpfix, marketed as a healthy alternative to dry shampoo to absorb oil while soothing problem scalps with Rosemary and Peppermint Oil, and Frank Body with their Dry Clean Shampoo with Rice Bran and Tapioca Starch.
SKINFLUENCE
Skintellectual consumers continued to to build the knowledge of skincare ingredients in 2020 as many of us switched to online research and shopping. Although the trend for adding traditional skincare ingredients into hair was already present in the haircare industry, that trend has now accelerated with haircare-skincare hybrids focusing on scalp health alongside protecting and strengthening hair. From Hyaluronic Acid, AHAs, Centella Asiatica through to Micellar Water, the hair industry is now fully on board with the inclusion of skin loving ingredients.
Dove are introducing a Scalp Tonic with Niacinamide and Aloe, formulated to soothe stressed out scalps, while the Galinee Scalp and Hair Serum is based on a microbiome friendly pre and postbiotic formula with fermented rice water, aligned to one of the key skincare trends in 2021.
This trend will continue to strengthen in 2021, with skin-loving ingredient stories becoming a hygiene factor in any credible haircare launches going forward.
NATURALLY YOU
The natural hair trend has gone from strength to strength, supported with increased education and content on platforms such as Tik Tok over the last 12 months. Unique texture, coils and curls were celebrated with the Curly Girl trend in 2020, and curl defining innovation continues into 2021 through trends such as hair plopping (a drying technique for frizz free curls) and no-poo shampoo regimes. Aligned to this heritage, indie and mainstream brands are all bringing curl care products to market in 2021. Kérastase are launching their Curl Manifesto range, with a full range of treatments and cleansers, while Pattern founded by Tracee Ellis Moss, launched a range a treatments based on traditional care remedies earlier this year.
Protective styles for natural hair will also be a key feature, linking to time-saving, low maintenance and hair health boosting consumer needs. - braids, bantu knots, butterfly locs and twist outs are fully celebrated this year, alongside products to help maintain scalp health and refreshing sprays.
WELLNESS
Wellness was the key beauty buzzword in 2020, as many of us turned to at home selfcare treatments to provide some much needed TLC and downtime. Mintel forecasted in their Beauty and Personal Care Trends Report for 2021 that “The concept of total wellness has become integral to beauty routines” and that routines that help to relieve stress and anxiety would remain a key consumer need across the total industry. This will fuel the continued focus to scalp health, with Cosmeticsdesign-Asia noting that stress-related hair loss or poor scalp health will increase consumer demand for scalp and hair repair innovation.
As well as wellness-inspired ingredient and product innovation, this trend in the hair category also incorporates taking some extra time on your hair routine to treat and repair, with a dual benefit of providing you with time to relax + revitalising hair health. An example in 2021 is the launch of the Olaplex No.8 Moisture Mask which is sure to be a hit for followers of this cult hair brand, especially as their No3 Hair Perfector Treatment was one of the top selling beauty products of 2020 in UK beauty retailers.
LOOK AHEAD AUTUMN WINTER 2021
As we turn towards the second half of 2021, what other trends will emerge as we continue to explore our new post-pandemic lifestyles? We predict that big, bold OTT styles will make an appearance if we are able to fully return to nightlife, especially alongside an expected cosmetics trend of standout colour and glitter, as a celebration of the joy of being able to go “out out” once again.
Other ones to watch include continued trial of shampoo bars as the waterless trend continues to influence the hair industry (see L’Occtaine for a recent launch in this area with 99% biodegradable ingredients), alongside continued innovation in the dry shampoo market in line with low maintenance styles. Mintel calls out the latest NPD launches in these areas in their May 21 Innovation highlights. Finally, the soft curtain bands of 2020 will be replaced by bold, edgy fringes with attitude, as showcased at the Milan winter runway shows with an explosion of uber short fringes.
As ever, if you are interested in creating your own haircare range, or growing your existing range, then get in touch for a chat to find out how we can help.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
