THE INNOVATOR ARTICLES
THE FLARE UP OF SENSITISED SKIN
70% of the world’s population consider themselves to have sensitive skin. With this staggering statistic, many dermatologists believe sensitive skin is often mistaken for what is actually sensitised skin. So why is there so much confusion?
Sensitive Vs Sensitised - what is the difference?
Sensitive skin is genetic and unfortunately something you're born with. Sensitised skin is triggered when environmental factors change our normal skin function. These triggers can come from both internal and external factors such as lifestyle, a certain ingredient in a product, or pollution.
Confusingly, both conditions can result is similar skin discomfort issues, such as:
Dehydration
Burning
Itching
Swelling
Uneven texture
Facial redness
Rashes
Breakouts
With common symptoms experienced in both conditions, it’s understandable why there is so much confusion around sensitive skin.
How do you know if your skin is sensitive or sensitised?
Dermatologists recommend reducing your skincare regime down to a simple two step cleanse and moisturise to remove problematic skincare ingredients. You can then gradually re-introduce products to identify which ingredients don’t agree with your skin. However, if you truly have sensitive skin, these symptoms will persist long after you stop using a specific ingredient.
Problem ingredients
Here are some most known ingredients harmful to sensitive skin, which should avoided:
Sulfates
Fragrance
Alcohol
Aggressive exfoliants i.e. apricot kernels,
Essential oils
Chemicals found in many sunscreens (so physical sunscreens using zinc are recommended for sensitive skin)
Another thing to be mindful of is experimenting with skin refining treatments and ingredients, as many aren’t sensible for sensitive skin e.g. face peels and retinol.
Top tips
So that’s what ingredients to avoid, but what can reduce the symptoms of sensitive skin?
Don’t use hot water when cleansing
Cleanse with a gentle, hydrating cleanser, like Kate Somerville DeliKate Soothing Cleanse
Use a simple moisturiser, like The Inkey List Snow Mushroom Face Moisturiser
Always wear SPF - like Dermalogica Invisible Physical Defense SPF30
Avoid using exfoliants that scratch or inflame the skin, instead opt for gentle fruit enzymes peels - like ExfoliKate® Gentle.
Use anti-pollution moisturisers to minimise skin aggravation - like VICHY Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydration Booster
Good Ingredients
Here are some ingredients should you look out for which are effective at supporting sensitive skin:
Aloe Vera
Bisabolol
Cica
Chamomile
Reishi
Ceramides
Shea butter
White tea extract
Green tea extract
How sensitive skin concerns are increasing
Our skin is exposed to more extremities than ever before, which can all cause sensitised skin issues. Be it the fluctuations in temperature, the increase of global pollution, or adopting of new protective habits such as wearing face masks and use of antibacterial products.
In the US, ‘Sensitive skin’ has surpassed ‘Acne skin’ searches in the past 12 months for the first time on record, with the search term up 132% in 5 years! Its likely that, post COVID-19, even more people will be looking to their beauty regimes to help treat skin impacted by our new clean-conscious, protective lifestyles.
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Post Lockdown Beauty Industry Trends
Right now we still don’t know what the rest of 2020 and beyond holds for us, as CV-19 still remains a huge global issue.
The beauty industry has experienced highs and lows (haven’t we all!), from salons struggling with closures through to online sales of skincare and wellness products booming. So it’s hard to say for certain what’s around the corner for anyone. However, there are now some clear trends emerging in the beauty industry that will meet consumer needs in our “new normal”.
Safe Beauty
Safe beauty solutions are emerging fast to enable consumers to feel confident in the products they choose to use. Mintel has forecasted that “more than ever, consumers will scrutinize ingredient safety and evaluate the risk of possible product contamination and expiration”. Shelf life, product safety proof and recognised certification, and brand transparency and trust will be part of consumer decision making. Ingredients that provide reassurance of cleanliness and hygiene will be valued, such as antibacterial benefits and additional protection against germs or viruses. Anti-viral hand creams are already entering the market, such as the Recherché anti-viral sanitising hand cream.
Biotech
The demand for natural, health and wellness inspired ingredients in beauty is still growing. However, with safety and cleanliness concerns post-COVID one potential growth area could be biotech. The technology utilises naturally derived ingredients (e.g. yeast) which are engineered in a lab. For example, Bioeffect create a synthetic EGF from barley. Traditionally biotech ingredients have been mainly marketed as more sustainable than natural ingredients as they are produced using less of the earths resources. However, if product safety becomes a concern for consumers post pandemic, then synthetic ingredients that are both “natural” and “safe” may be valued by consumers.
Touchless Beauty
Testing new beauty products is going to be a huge challenge for the beauty industry going forward, and a new era of virtual consultations and beauty try-on technology is upon us. Brands like MAC and Avons AR tools (where you can virtually apply 200+ shades at home) will have had consumers using these for the first time, even though the technology has been around for years. Others like bareMinerals and Josh Wood Colour have provided personalised, digital 1-2-1 consultations as a alternative to an in store experience. For many consumers, these may end up being a more convenient and preferred way to shop long term if they get the experience and results they want.
Sampling will also be in huge demand by brands. In the US sampling, both free and paid for, is the norm anyway, with the NY Times even writing an article titled “Your hording of Sephora samples is out of control”. However, markets like the UK will have to catch-up to this increased consumer need. Luxe Packaging says “Sampling suppliers have been quick to develop new products or revisit existing ranges in a bid to enhance the in-store experience while putting the health of consumers and store staff front and center”.
Pack suppliers are already innovating in the market to adapt to changing retail needs. WWD recently covered the development of a motion activated fragrance or liquid product tester for use in stores, so no physical contact is required.
Sensitised Skin
If mask use is here to stay then skin and makeup routines will change. This includes adapting skincare benefits to meet the needs of facial skin impacted prolonged mask or PPE use with reduced air circulation. We already know there are short term issues created from this (e.g. acne breakouts) but what are the long term skin needs in the post-pandemic world?
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A beginners guide to CBD Skincare
The CBD trend has been around for a while but isn’t going away, with the centre for medicinal cannabis organisation forecasting that CBD in the uk will be worth £1 billion by 2025. In the beauty industry, CBD is a key trend within the natural / wellness movement, and has become one of the go-to ingredients stories in the skincare market. Despite that, there remains a lot of confusion about the use of topical CBD, and what benefits you can expect. In today’s blog, we review the myth and facts about CBD skincare.
What is CBD?
CBD is a cannabinoid (a chemical compound) found in the marijuana or hemp plant. It is non-intoxicating, so is not psychoactive, unlike tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) which is the most famous compound within the plant. CBD is extracted from the flower and leaves of the plant, and usually mixed an oil carrier which is suitable for human skin such as argan or coconut. It should not be confused with hemp seed oil which is extracted only from the seeds, and has different benefits and a much lower concentration of cannabinoid.
What are the benefits of using CBD and hemp seed oil in skincare?
Hemp seed oil is usually used for moisturisation and skin softening. It also contains antioxidants, fatty acids and will not clog the pores. Hemp seed oil has been used in the beauty industry for years, so isn’t viewed as a new “wonder” ingredient, and for parched skin there are plenty of other effective ingredients out there (hello Hyaluronic Acid).
In contrast, the benefits of using CBD in skincare are still very much being explored. What has created the beauty buzz around it is potential for CBD to treat some of the most problematic skin conditions.
Acne: CBD is an effective anti-inflammatory to help to calm and soothe irritated skin. Alongside this, a 2014 study found that CBD may also help to regulate sebum production so that excess isn’t being produced, which can cause blocked pores if mixed with pollutants, dirt or dead skin cells. CBD is therefore often marketed as an active ingredient to help treat acne-prone skin.
Anti-ageing: CBD is rich in antioxidants which help to counteract and reduce free radical damage from the sun and environment. As free radicals are a known cause of premature skin ageing, this means CBD has the potential to deliver good anti-ageing benefits. Alongside this, its anti-inflammatory properties could help to keep ageing skin looking healthy and fresh.
Eczema and Psoriasis: Due to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties CBD may be helpful in treating Eczema conditions. The National Eczema Organisation highlights that trials in this area have been limited, but the theory behind the use of CBD in eczema topical treatments is exciting.
Does CBD skincare work?
There are few watch-outs when it comes to CBD skincare:
Proof: Testing and trials are promising but so far have not been widespread, especially in human trials. At the moment there is not the depth of data or clinical proof to fully demonstrate the skincare benefits for topical CBD
Ingredient content: There have been instances of products being marketed as CBD skincare when they contained very low levels, or hemp seed oil which has completely different benefits and properties. This has been called “green-washing” where product labelling has been misleading or the content of CBD hasn’t been at a level to be effective. This may be because the regulation and guidance around hemp vs marijuana vs cannabis, and how they can be used, is still very mixed and misunderstood
So should you try CBD skincare? Absolutely - there are enough products out there on the market now with great consumer reviews so its definitely worth giving CBD a go. Just make sure you do your research and check the ingredient list first.
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World Wellbeing Week and the role of beauty
The word “wellbeing” today encompasses a huge range of issues, and that is reflected in the broad scope of World Wellbeing Week. How you feel is influenced so many factors, from the physical through to mental, financial through to environmental.
So when we think about how to support our own wellbeing, it can be overwhelming to try narrow down what will positively impact mood.
The wide ranging scope of what wellbeing means has resulted in “wellness” becoming a booming area of the global economic market, covering a multitude of products and services. In light of CV-19 increasing stress and anxiety, Mintel highlights that many brands have shifted even more focus into this area to ensure they meet consumer desires to stay “in control of emotional, physical and mental health”.
Wellbeing in the beauty industry
The Beauty Industry is no different, with a huge range of wellbeing focused products available. From spa treatments to a new haircut to signify a fresh start, or picking up a new lipstick for a mood boost, beauty has historically had a big role in supporting wellbeing and mood. So how qualified is the beauty industry to position itself as a positive contributor to how good we feel? As we all know, the beauty industry has in the past been criticised for negatively impacted our mental wellbeing e.g. by projecting unrealistic beauty standards in its advertising, focusing on anti-ageing instead of celebrating beauty at every age, and ignoring environmental needs in the interests of bigger, bolder, flashier beauty packaging.
However, the tide has begun to turn on many of these issues, with beauty brands now striving to do better in the face of consumer criticism. It’s now much more commonplace to be able to buy into brands like Five Dot Botanics who champion ingredients transparency, Ethique for plastic-free beauty, or to find images that represent everyone in society, regardless of age, gender, size or skin colour. The beauty industry has recognised that wellbeing has to be more holistic, and in tune with what supports consumers emotionally, mentally, ethically, as well as physically.
Aside from buying into brands whose ethics support wellbeing, you can easily adjust your beauty routine to include products that positively impact your mood. The good news is that self-care is one of the hottest beauty trends in 2020 as a result of CV-19, so wellness focused products are now accessible at every price point.
We have chosen 3 of our go to self-care products - perfect for building into your usual beauty routine for a moment of calmness when you need it most this week.
Scented Candles
According to the NPD Group, sales of home fragrance candles are booming during CV-19. In the UK in March 2020 sales of prestige room fresheners increased by 37%, prestige candles by 6% and diffusers by 3%. It seems that creating a relaxing environment has been an important part of our at-home self care rituals - especially as candles offer away to experience fragrance when buying perfume without the instore experience became much more difficult. We love this offer from Cowshed to bring a little spa-like zen calmness into your home.
Washing & Bathing
Retailers such as Zalando and Amazon US saw sales spikes in washing & bathing products at the start of lock-down as we all eased ourselves into a bubble bath to escape the reality of lockdown life. From bath oils to scrubs, there is plenty of choice out there to relax tired muscles and minds - we personally love a bath bomb (making a bit of a comeback at the moment!) to help fizz away our worries when needed.
Face Oils
There is just something very soothing about the act of massaging an oil into your skin. Not only does the action help to relax muscles, but this type of product takes longer to apply, helping you to carve out a moment to yourself when you need to destress. Face oils have historically been more of a niche format, but there are oils out there now for every skin type and need.
So there you have it, our quick look at what wellbeing-focused products you can incorporate into your routine during World Wellbeing Week. If there are any products that instantly help you feel better when you need a boost, let us know.
#worldwellbeingweek
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Slow beauty explained
INDUSTRY INSIGHTS
Before CV-19, many of us felt a growing unease with an unsustainable pace of life, and our throwaway culture. An always-on, buy more-more-more lifestyle wasn’t making us happier or healthier. As a reaction to this, counter-trends kept emerging such as hygge or lagom, designed to help us carve out moments of peace and authenticity away from our seriously busy lives.
In line with these counter-culture movements, the beauty industry has gradually been seeing a shift towards a slower, more considered approach. The slow beauty trend has been talked about on and off in the beauty press for a number of years, such as in this 2019 Glamour article, as a result of backlash against of the high churn fashion industry. The circumstances of 2020 have accelerated this trend, with consumers rethinking the products and brands they want to invest in, as we have all been forced to stop and consider what really matters.
So what is slow beauty?
The slow beauty trend actually links together a number of trends in the market under one movement. What they all have in common is being more considered in how you think about, purchase and use beauty products.
Holistic Slow Beauty
For some slow beauty is thinking about beauty is a much broader way than just using products. It’s an all-encompassing lifestyle, and must include great nutrition to “nourish the body from the inside out”.
Wendy Rowe, author to the book Eat Beautiful, writes that diet and wellness (e.g. reducing stress) are key to seeing improvements to your skin, as well as incorporating skin supplements and exercise such as mood-boosting yoga and dance.
You shouldn’t expect to see skin benefits immediately, as the approach is about maintaining a long term healthy lifestyle which will deliver a slow and sustained benefit to your complexion and overall sense of wellbeing.
Ethical and Conscious Consumerism
Slow beauty is also about making sure your beauty choices are sustainable and ethical. Brands must have a clear environmental policy which is transparent about how green their packaging is (e.g. compostable or “naked” in the case of Lush) and what ingredients they use, with vegan and clean almost becoming hygiene factors. Even if a brand has work to do in this area they are expected to be open to consumers about this.
Slow beauty continues to evolve in this space, with brands now expected to demonstrate full inclusivity, alongside a positive contribution to society and the world around them. Cosmetics Business noted in their trend overview for 2020 (pre CV-19) that consumers are increasingly holding brands to account, especially Gen Z consumers:
“The expectations on brands across all sectors are growing greater, but within beauty, consumers have raised the bar for everything from efficacy to ethics, and in the year ahead, their demands will evolve even further”
Post CV-19 slow beauty ethics will be key for consumers, as we have all had time to reflect on what and how much we buy. So how will it continue to evolve?
Next gen environmental thinking: Harpers Bazaar sees the next phase of ethical beauty purchasing as a focus on waterless formulations to reduce water consumption, with major beauty producers such as L’Oreal and Unilever all making commitments to drastically reduce their water consumption over the next decade
Buy better / buy less / buy local: Customers will not only cut back on excessive consumerism, but may also look to buy from smaller and homegrown brands. Sylvie Moreau, President of Coty Professional, recently predicted that local-ism will be an output of more considered purchases, as consumers spend more time in their own countries and support homegrown / smaller businesses as a show of solidarity post CV-19
Self Care
For those of us who haven’t quite mastered the art of meditation or mindfulness, slow beauty routines play a role in taking a quiet moment to ourselves to de-stress. This aspect of slow beauty has become even more relevant in lockdown as beauty rituals are used to reduce anxiety levels.
There are lots of brands out there now who encourage self-care techniques as part of their application to relax, such as Kyushi whose brand ethos is “Mindful skincare to help balance your skin & mind”. The face oils are designed to be applied slowly while inhaling the aromas as part of a ritual to lower stress levels.
Bathing beauty rituals have also seen a massive boom in sales during the pandemic. The Telegraph recently reported that Asos.com had seen a +350% increase in self-care products like bath salts and bombs during lockdown, with consumers using bathing products create a moment of escapism in uncertain times. Slow beauty encourages us all to be kind to ourselves, even if its just taking 10 minutes a day to enjoy a moment to relax and forget the stresses of the day.
Our final thought…..
Slow beauty can’t be defined as just a beauty ritual or product type, a lifestyle, or what you look for in a brand when you make purchase decisions - its all these under one, wide-reaching movement. What is clear is that a slow beauty ethos will be at the heart of a broader wellness trend for the foreseeable future.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Creative beauty, lockdown and daisy nails...
A wonderful trend that is emerging from our locked down status is an outpouring of creativity. Kids are sharing their rainbows as an act of love and solidarity for the NHS, skilled knitters are creating hearts for COVID19 victims and their families, and sewing enthusiasts are stitching scrubs like there is no tomorrow.
While we are all hoping for some semblance of ‘normal’ to return soon and patiently waiting for a VERY long overdue hair cut or for our extensions to be replaced, creativity at home is gaining momentum and hopefully keeping us on an even keel. Below, we have highlighted just a few great examples of (what we think anyway) of people helping us to find our creative flare during this time.
Rob Biddulph hosts a brilliant You Tube show, Draw with Rob (for those of you of a certain age, think Take Hart), where he shows viewers how to create the cutest cartoon style characters in matter of minutes, and is in fact today (21st May 2020), attempting to break a Guinness World Record for the World’s Largest Art Lesson.
The most wonderful Grayson Perry is hosting his Art Club show on Channel 4. Every week there is is different theme and the great British public share the most incredible creations with a few talented devils being invited to share their masterpieces in Grayson’s future exhibition. It’s dedicated to a theory (one I agree with) that art can help to express how we’re feeling, and through expression we deliver a bit of positive therapy, which at the moment can only be good thing. This too being #mentalawarenessweek, we are firmly behind anything that helps in challenging times!
Following this positive theme, creativity is blooming in the beauty space too; with painting nails seeming to be the easiest way for us to express our artistic tendencies. The eclectically beautiful Harry Styles gets the award for nail/outfit matching in his video for Watermelon Sugar and as we know, Harry is big fan of a bit of polish and nail art. The super talented Britney Tokyo decorated Styles’ nails to promote his new album - Fine Line (his album title) Kiwi. Cherry. Watermelon Sugar and Strawberry (a nod to a line in Watermelon Sugar) all expertly crafted on to well manicured, short nails.
Over the last few months, Google has seen a 250% increase in the search term ‘How to paint your own nails’ and Instagram is (to date) pulling in a huge result of 12.6k for the hashtag #lockdownnails. Nail art is seeing some great trends coming through for spring / summer that are super easy to do with all the kit you might have at home (top tip: do not use Tip-Ex) or if you are feeling more creative, you can invest in the essential gels and decorative paraphernalia. Our fave trend currently is the simple daisy – easy to do yourself, an expression of springtime, better times to come and as cute as flip.
All this creativity is helping us with some daily positive vibes which we definitely all need at the moment. Have fun picking up an old skill or trying something new for the first time - we will be giving those nails a go although not sure they will look at pretty as Harry’s do…..
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HOW LOCKDOWN BEAUTY CHANGED OUR BEAUTY HABITS
We’ve seen consumer behaviour change while in lockdown, giving us a new perspective on the brands that really matter to us, and what we think we want vs what we really need.
Brows
With a focus on brows, Eyelure’s Dybrow is selling 1 product every 30 seconds (according to the brands spokesperson) and at a cost of only £7, we think this could be a shift in behaviour that will continue as beauty spend might be reined in for months following the lifting of lockdown restrictions.
Self-haircare culture
40+ days in and our normal routines are well and truly out of the window and whilst there seems to be a great divide in the approach to self-haircare – with some people willing to wait it out and get back into the hairdressers chair to get the roots bleached away (I’m speaking from personal experience on this one), others are definitely willing to give the home box dye a go.
Google have seen the search term ‘how to cut hair’ increased by over 600% and ‘hair dye’ by 250%. Amazon have seen figures climb across the beauty category – in their recent top 50 selling beauty products hairdressing scissors at #1 & #2 with sources sharing that haircare is experiencing an incredible growth rate and Google searches have increased by 250% since March 2020.
Lockdown has also seen an increase in celebs like Ellie Fannin & Lottie Moss dabbling with colour experimentation, with pink hair dye being the outright winner of the lockdown trend. We’ve also seen an increase in strange hair dying practices with food colouring, crayons and tissue paper. Creativity is alive and well!
But there is no question, covering our roots is a huge deal. Advice from trusted influencers on their DIY approach is working for brand like L’Oreal with Eva Longoria sharing her root covering journey (seriously who looks this good doing this themselves at home?)
More recently, the wonderful Nadine Baggott - who has always been a fan of colouring her own hair, took us through the steps necessary to ensure the job is done properly.
Bath & Body
Relaxation for mind, body and soul has never been so desirable, and bathing is seeing a refresh in its approach to product and mindset.
Lush have taken a fantastic direction to uplift and energise bathing fans with a 1hr 47 min soundtrack Chilled Baths and Bath Art (subscribe to their You Tube channel for more tracks). They also launched Lush Moods, a 15min meditation created to help users achieve their chosen state of mind whilst relaxing in the bath – must admit, just watching the video on You Tube, was incredibly relaxing! Fantastic content that really supports their consumers achieve a zen frame of mind! Bath bombs are seeing a surge of activity else where too with the Three Little Birds Handmade bath bombs in triple digit growth on Amazon.
Our collective lockdowns now appear to be changing shape, with easing of the rules in most countries relaxing a little on a weekly basis so it will be interesting to see how this affects our industry further.
One huge change will be the impact of the physical store, how we’re allowed to shop and how retailers will manage testers. Sephora have recently opened up a store in Paris, with a changed shape and approach and the local community seemed to have taken it all in their stride, but it feels like change in how processes on the shop floor is definitely needed if to provide full reassurance to customers that its safe to browse, test and buy.
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HAY FEVER AND YOUR SKIN
Hay Fever, or for the technical bods, Seasonal Allergic Rhinitis, is an allergic reaction which is caused when pollen comes directly into contact with your eyes, nose, mouth and throat. In the UK, 1 in 5 people suffer from Hay Fever flare ups throughout the year; with tree pollen coming first, then grass pollen and later in the year, weed pollen – some of us are unlucky enough to be affected by all 3….
Pollen and your skin
Long gone are the chapped lips and numb hands of Winter - Spring has brought us warmer temperatures and brighter mornings so far, which is ideal during this period of lockdown. Unfortunately, this means Hay Fever sufferers are dealing with itchy, watery eyes, streaming noses and headaches which often leaves us feeling energy-less, much earlier than expected this year. Surprisingly, pollen exposure can actually impact on our skin too. According to a WGSN report, pollen makes up a significant amount of particulate pollution which has been demonstrated to damage our skin’s barrier function. Similar to pollution such as UV and car emissions, pollen has the ability to attack our skin cells, causing inflammations and inhibiting collagen production.
Skin’s Barrier Function
When our skin’s barrier is damaged, it tends to become dry and irritated. As much as we try to resist itching it, we can often cause further harm from picking at these dry spots. A great solution to counteract this damage, is to look out for key ingredients such as Ceramides; these will help to re-build our skin’s barrier and treat the dehydration. Interestingly, our skin naturally produces Ceramides - they help to bind cells together to protect and hydrate our skin barrier, but with the regular attack of pollen affecting these levels, our skin needs a little extra support to replenish this protection level.
Product recommendation: The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment 30ml (which can also be found on Cult Beauty)
Collagen Production
Without Collagen (the protein that gives skin it’s elasticity) our skin sees an increase in sagging, fine lines and wrinkles and is also left vulnerable to be easily damaged. By inhibiting the production of Collagen, Hay Fever is clearly not our friend when it comes to looking after our skin’s firmness and smooth appearance. An easy way to ensure you are helping your skin with this reduced production, is by using products full of Vitamin C to shield against the effects of pollen. Increasing your Vitamin C intake will increase your level of Collagen synthesis and in turn keep skin feeling firmer, plumper and looking more youthful.
Note: you can also fill your diet with Vitamin C rich foods such as citrus fruits, strawberries and red peppers.
Skin Inflammations
Unfortunately, we aren’t just talking about the puffy, streaming eyes here. Technically classed as an allergic reaction on the skin, pollen can leave skin feeling dry and itchy, as well as causing redness. As we cannot control the amount of pollen floating around, we need to ensure that we are protecting our skin from radical damage by feeding our skin antioxidants. We recommend that you look for skincare products packed with ingredients such as Green Tea, Turmeric and Snow Mushroom as these will all provide soothing and hydrating anti-inflammatory benefits as well as combating redness.
Note: if you suffer from other skin conditions, such as Eczema, we recommend that you discuss with a dermatologist for the best treatment for your skin. These could include steroid creams.
Antihistamines
Finally, it has also been found that our little saviours, antihistamines, can actually affect our sebum production. Used to counteract the effect of histamines (a messenger chemical in our bodies that can cause symptoms such as sneezing, itching and runny noses), antihistamines actually block receptors which release sebum (or oil) onto the skin. This in turn, leaves our skin less oily and drier than normal. Although already providing solutions to help dry skin above, we thought it was important to flag the potential outcome of taking one of these everyday as it could be a key contributing factor to the changes in your skin.
Focusing on tree pollen, with Dr Adams-Groom confirms that about 25-35% of the UK population (18 million people) suffer at this early stage, it is important to recognise the further implications that Hay Fever can have on our skin and the extra support it will need during these months.
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BBC News - Hay Fever or Coronavirus: The symptoms compared
WATERLESS BEAUTY
With water consumption outstripping supply and The World Wildlife Fund predicting that two-thirds of the world’s population may face water shortages by 2025, the beauty industry is starting to realise that it needs to turn off its tap to water consumption.
Global water consumption is probably something that most of us currently take for granted and never think about. But when WWF share stark predictions and numbers, its up to all of us to listen. By the end of May 2020, we will have consumed 1,500,000,000 litres of water alone, with 20% of that used by industry. Fashion is the second largest industry consumer of water after oil, and it takes average of 2,720 litres of water is needed to make one T-Shirt. One!
To put this in perspective, this is as much as you’d drink in over 3 years! Its striking how much water is needed to sustain a typical modern-day lifestyle, so you can see why consumers are adapting their behaviour to better the environment. Waterless as a concept has been around for a while, but until recently, hasn’t really had much of a movement behind it - now though we think its time to make some significant changes.
WATERLESS BEAUTY
When we talk about the waterless trend in beauty, it’s easy to just focus on what is inside the bottle. Retailers release their curated edits of the latest waterless formulations and so it is understandable that consumers would be led into thinking that by opting for a powder cleanser or switching to soap bar, they are doing their bit to help conserve an ever-increasing scarce water supply.
However, to get true picture of water usage and where we can improve, we cannot focus solely on the formulation. True, water is the main filler used in many beauty products; making up to 70-80% of formulations, it has it’s benefits in keeping product costs down and helping sensorially. However, the amount of water used in formulations is just a drop in the ocean to the issue when considering the beauty industries total contribution to the water crisis, which spans much further than just what is inside the bottle.
The average beauty product consumes several thousand litres of water; from producing the ingredients and the packaging, to the manufacturing process and transportation. Therefore, brands need to address the full product cycle to tackle water scarcity. To reduce the overall water footprint of the beauty industry the approach must be holistic and there are a number of key questions we can be asking ourselves throughout the product development cycle:
Ingredient and packaging production:
What is the intensity of water consumption of each individual ingredient?Formulation type:
What is the aqua content of the formulation?Manufacturing process:
How water intensive is the method of manufacture?Transportation:
How does the transportation contribute to water pollution?Usage:
How much water is used when the product is consumed?Disposal and recycling:
How much water is needed to deal with the product waste?
BRANDS GETTING WATERLESS RIGHT
OWA Haircare are rethinking our beauty regimes in creating water-activated formulas in the form of powder shampoos!
Waterless brand, Pinch of Colour, are going above and beyond to do their bit to preserve water by giving back to communities around the world in need of clean drinking water, hygiene and sanitation.
Waterl<ss was born out of the Day Zero water crisis in Cape Town. Its range offers flexible non-wash solutions that can be used without water.
WATERLESS DOES NOT MEAN COMPROMISE
There are clear advantages in moving to a water conscious product strategy.
On average, products are smaller in size and lighter in weight, which means they have a lesser carbon footprint. Also, waterless formulations allow the consumer to benefit from more potent formulations which haven’t been diluted and, because they don’t contain any water, preservatives don’t need to be added which means cleaner formulations
So, lets start thinking waterless…
Start at the beginning - in the product development kick off phase, plan to formulate using water alternatives. For example, oils and extracts can form the base of skincare products instead of water.
Work with raw materials partners to source water-economic alternatives which use less water to grow and preserve biodiversity.
Support the Supply Chain by co-creating targets to improve the manufacturing process, adapting it so that it uses as little water as possible. Opting for formats and textures which require less equipment clean down; improving water usage efficiency and recycling; and using less virtual water in the manufacturing process can all help to keep water consumption to a minimum.
Whilst eco-friendly consumers can generally see how much packaging has been used or wasted in their products, it is less obvious to know the water consumption of a product. Sustainability is more so than ever influencing consumers purchase decisions. This, paired with water scarcity becoming an increasing concern, will mean that customers will rely on brands to not only cut down on their consumption, but to also be transparent with how much or little has been used in the end-to-end production of their products.
If you would like to talk to us about a waterless beauty launch, please get in touch for a chat.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HOW LOCKDOWN BEAUTY REGIMES HAVE CHANGED
Since the first day of lockdown, beauty consumers behaviour across the globe has radically changed. Whether it’s the products we are using, or how much time we are spending on beauty regimes, there is no doubt that lockdown has altered the way we think about our beauty products.
Perhaps the most significant change is the increase in skincare and reduction in make-up usage. Morning routines have instantly simplified - even for an all day Zoom meeting, applying a full make-up look has become a much smaller part of what we do when starting the day. Conversely, more usage of beauty products that we usually have less time for, or have purchased for the first time as a little pick-me-up, have totally changed our usual beauty routines.
So what are the products that are likely to be experiencing a new focus as a result of COVID-19? In this article, we cover the products that consumers are rediscovering, finding more time for, or trying for the first time. For beauty retailers and brands, it may be time to re-look at their role in future NPD plans as a result.
Skincare Masks
Even before lockdown masks were booming, and had been for several years. According to Statista in 2018 the global face masks market was estimated at $32 billion worldwide, and was estimated to grow to $50.9 billion by 2025. Innovative formats, ingredients, and price points from mass through to premium, delivered endless choice to consumers, even if we didn’t all have time to actually use one. However, lockdown has left a lot of us with more time on our hands, so why not add masks into your routine more frequently? There is also a mental health benefit to these products, as popping one on forces us to stop what we are doing for 15 minutes, relax and clear our minds (as well as our pores). Most of us have masks lurking in our bathrooms cabinets that we have rediscovered over the last few weeks, and we think this increase in usage will continue during and post-lockdown.
Eyelash and Brow Growth Serums
Anyone else wearing a lot less mascara at the moment? Consumers are using lockdown as an opportunity to have a lash detox if they are regularly false lash or extension wearers. Instead, focus has shifted over to lash and brow growth serums to improve the health and length of lashes. Although Revitalash and Rapidlash remain the most iconic offers in this sector, there are now plenty of other brands to choose from and price points are increasingly accessible. As consumers regularly apply or trial these for the first time, we think growth serums will be mainstream beauty staples during and post-lockdown (as long as they deliver on their promises).
BB / CC Creams and Tinted Moisturisers
Even before lockdown, BB Creams popularity had continued to grow as a multi-functional, easy to use beauty format. Future Market Insights had forecasted +9% global CAGR growth for BB Creams between 2019-2027. Over the last few weeks lockdown has increased consumer focus in these sorts of products, reflected in the influx of beauty press articles on top rated tints and creams to take the place of your usual foundation. Currently, there is simply less need for full foundation coverage, and those tints or creams that may have usually been reserved for holidays / weekends / the gym have become a more regular part of morning beauty regimes. These products are usually packed with skincare ingredients, so its a good time for brands to be thinking about how to update and focus their future offer with these products.
Hair and Nail Treatments
Like lashes, your hair and nails are likely to be experiencing a full beauty detox as a result of no access your your usual hairdressers and salons. Post-lockdown, there is no doubt that we will all be rushing back to cover up roots and nail growth. However, in the meantime there are lots of options to give hair and nails some well earned TLC to to improve health and vitality. With less straightening and styling, hair oils and balms are likely to experience a boost as consumers tame wild locks pre-video calls. Bare nails and cuticles are benefiting from vitamin packed oils and treatments.
Another output of this trend is consumers taking on the role of their usual beauty therapists, giving manicures a go with at home LED gel nail kits or home hair dyes. At the beginning of April, Forbes reported on a +23% increased in home hairdye and a +166% increase in hair clippers from the previous year in the USA. If consumers achieve successful results from their beauty DIY trials, its likely that DIY beauty behaviour and supporting NPD will be a key trend post-lockdown (more to follow on this later from the Be For Innovation team!).
Hygiene and Hand Care
Hygiene products are a global No1 priority to combat COVID-19, and post lockdown this isn’t going to change. With no sign of a vaccine for COVID-19, even when lockdown restrictions are lifted consumers will need to be incredibly mindful of preventing the spread of germs to prevent reoccurring outbreaks. Hand soap will continue to boom (and bar soap in general as a key format), as well as daily use of hand sanitiser gels. One to watch is what other formats could evolve from this, and what existing formats will need to incorporate hygiene claims to stay safe and relevant for consumers. More to follow on this…..
As a result of improved hygiene, creams and moisturisers to care for hands adjusting to all the extra cleaning will be present in everyday beauty regimes for the foreseeable future. Again, as a retailer or brand now is the time to think what your offer should be to support consumers in this vital future clean beauty trend.
Wellbeing Beauty & Self-Care Products
We are all having to find ways to cope with this extraordinary moment in history. Anxiety and stress levels are a key issue, whether we are worrying about loved ones, key workers, loneliness or financial issues. Although beauty can seem trivial at a moment like this, finding ways to take care of yourself and your health has never mattered more. With that in mind, wellbeing focused beauty products are a helpful support tool. As mentioned with masks above, products that enable you switch off and de-stress are important to consider in current and future beauty regimes. Bath oils, sleep aids such as pillow sprays, and body treatments are examples of self-care beauty products that encourage behaviour to relieve tension - taking a moment to calm, relax and regroup when you need to. We think is this current climate, self-care isn’t selfish - its an achievable way to find an oasis of calm in a crisis. This category will experience increased interest during lockdown, and offers a way to treat others post-lockdown with a thoughtful gift.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Looking after your skin during workouts
Regardless of what type of exercise helps you to escape, get out of puff or relax your mind, it is important for us to remember how to look after our skin during workouts.
A common side effect to regular active sessions (as well as burning glutes and perfect Downward Dogs) is skin breakouts. When we workout, our pores are often blocked by oil, dirt and excess sweat which leaves it unable to breathe and in turn develop spots and an uneven skin tone. With excess sweating, we also tend to wipe our sweat off with our (probably unclean) hands; this friction that can also trigger skin irritation and blemishes. Dr. Krafferts confirms that the frequency of acne-prone skin getting worse with sweating is about 20% and as more than 90% of world population is affected by a form of acne at some point in their life, looking after our skin before and after we workout seems more important than ever. We have detailed below so top tips for caring for your skin before and after exercising:
BEFORE YOU WORKOUT
If you are a morning exerciser, skip your morning facial routine ahead of working out. Experts claim that sweat is the best natural cleanser and should clean out your pores in the morning
Ideally, remove all traces of make up with a gentle cleanser or micellar water. When we exercise, our body temperature rises and our pores open – make up, excess oils and dirt can contribute to blocking these and in turn cause breakouts
If you would prefer to wear make up, aim to use products that are labelled ‘non-comedogenic’ as these are specially formulated to not clog pores
Wear a headband or a sweatband to protect your hairline and T-zone from excessive sweat
AFTER YOU WORKOUT
Wash your hands before you go anywhere near your face…the bacteria and dirt that you have collected on your hands from your work out environment can cause further skin damage
Post work out, it is important to help your skin recover to ensure that it can regulate and breathe. Always rinse your face with cool or lukewarm water to avoid shocking the skin, causing extra redness and prevent the breaking of blood vessels
Wash your face almost immediately after working out with a gentle cleanser that has cooling properties, calming ingredients such as Chamomile or anti-bacterial ingredients such as Tea-Tree
After cleansing, always pat your skin down; avoid a wiping/dragging motion as this will cause further irritation
Do not pat dry your face fully. If you let it air dry, you will avoid your skin feeling overly dry and tight
As well as hydrating your body with water, your skin will need extra hydration post workout. Be sure to use a Hyaluronic Acid rich moisturiser or serum to replenish dehydrated skin
It seems very natural to try and scrub and exfoliate our faces after a workout, but it is worth noting that you can be causing your skin more harm than good. Experts say that exfoliating post work out is a definite no as exercise is incredible for skin turnover and we want to avoid forceful scrubbing which will cause further irritation and redness
The only exception to this, seems to be Salicylic or Glycolic pads which are gentle exfoliates and will help to remove any residual make up or dirt that could be clogging your skin post workout
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
RAISING THE BAR: WHY SOAP IS MAKING A BEAUTY COMEBACK
Eco-conscious beauty is an industry & global revolution
COV1D-19 changed the landscape of how we view certain things - never before have we been told to wash our hands so much. And prior to the last few weeks, today’s consumer had been demanding loud and clear that they want beauty products that not only help them look good, but allow them to make ethical purchase decisions. Formulations have to be clean and packaging has to be sustainable. In this context, it's not surprising that alternative product formats are growing in parallel to support this key consumer demand and the need / want for soaps has never been so high.
Over the last few years, the humble soap bar has stepped into the spotlight as a plastic-free alternative to not only traditional hand wash & bathing cleansers, but facial skincare and haircare formats. Most noticeably, it’s where some of the beauty industries most exciting new brand launches and innovation can now be found. Kantar reported that in the year to July 2019, bar soap sales in the UK were +4% YOY compared to liquid soaps –4.5% YOY sales decline in the same period. With market research agencies such as IMARC forecasting the bath soap market to be worth $25.9 billion globally by 2024, it’s a beauty movement that can't be ignored.
So if you are planning a new product launch in this area, what do you need to consider to make your range a success? In the article below, we have focused on 5 key dynamics to boost consumer appeal.
SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY PACKAGING
The most obvious reason for swopping to a bar format is the minimal packaging. As consumers seek solutions to reduce plastic waste in their homes, and with solid bars usually simply packaged in recyclable card or paper, this format stands out in beauty halls crowded with unsustainable products in non-recyclable plastic. This allows bar brands to be loud and proud about their eco-credentials at every touchpoint, and helps to facilitate the consumer movement towards waste-free beauty routines.
Some soap brands such as b.a.r.e soaps are taking this a step further, and are heroing their compostable labels and plantable packaging, where wildflower seed is incorporated into the card to be planted by the consumer. These are interesting examples of where eco-packaging isn't just a hygiene factor, but where it can act as an additional consumer benefit and PR worthy brand story.
KEEP IT CLEAN
Soap bars previously fell out of favour based on the idea that liquid soap was more hygienic. A common misconception circulated that bar soap was “dirty”, harbouring germs on the surface when used by multiple people or lying around in sludgy soap dishes. However, it’s now clear that there is little evidence to support this as long as bars are stored correctly (i.e. water can drain away), and they not shared by multiple users. In fact, liquids often rely on chemicals, surfactants and preservatives which can cause irritation to sensitive skin.
What has also become clear is the need for soap to combat the spread of viruses. Washing with soap not only helps to remove dirt from skin but also loosens the bond between a virus and the skin, and the interactions that hold the viruses proteins, lipids and ribonucleic acid together, which are the building blocks of a virus. As COVID-19 demonstrated, preventing the spread of viruses is a global priority, and soap has a key role to play in this.
National Geographic confirm why soaps are key for keeping this virus at bay - ‘Soap works so effectively because its chemistry pries open the coronavirus’s exterior envelope and cause it to degrade. These soap molecules then trap tiny fragments of the virus, which are washed away in water. Hand sanitizers work similarly by busting apart the proteins contained in a virus.’
INNOVATIVE INGREDIENTS, FORMATS & CLAIMS
Beauty bars have long since moved away from the value washing & bathing soaps that left faces feeling stripped and super tight. Today the consumer can benefit from results-driven, innovative solid bar formulations in not only bathing, but facial skincare and haircare.
Face and Body Cleansing Bars: The best examples in the market are designed to contain gentle cleansing agents to maintain PH balance, with formulations available for any skin type, from acne prone to dry. Glycerine is often present to present dryness, supported with innovative ingredients matching any other high performance skincare product, such as Cold Pressed Algae, Marula Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Charcoal and Pink Clay.
Shampoo and Conditioner Bars: Haircare bar formulas are often free from Sulphates such as Sodium Laurel Sulphate for gentle formulations. Like facial cleansers, hero ingredients (often naturally derived) are championed to create engaging product stories, and are tailored to work for all hair types (coloured, oily etc) so consumers don’t need to compromise on claims.
An additional environmental benefit is that solid shampoo bars are marketed to last longer than alternative beauty formats, with brands such as ethique claiming that their 110g shampoo bars would deliver as many uses as 3 shampoo bottles. With eco-conscious consumers simplifying beauty routines, moving away from the multi-step / multi-purchase trend, the promise of reducing the frequency of purchase will appeal to savvy consumers.
LUXURY AND GIFT EXPERIENCE
Alongside the move on in product use and claims, solid beauty bars are now designed to be insta-worthy and enhance any beauty bathroom shelfie. Powerhouse premium brands such as Aveda, Sisley, L’Occtaine, and Jo Malone offer high end bars in beautiful packaging. Consumers are spoilt for choice from independent artisan and SPA brands, offering crafted-by-hand claims and compelling natural ingredient stories. Products are supported with sensorial, natural fragrances, meaning the user experience is not just functional or ethical, but a luxurious self-treat or beauty gift.
ECO-FRIENDLY SOAP DISHES
A key barrier to use has been the perception of sticky, dissolving bars slowly melting into the puddle on the side of your sink. Purchasing a non-recyclable plastic soap dish doesn’t sit well with many brands environmental policies, so what have brands been doing to support their ranges with a solution to this problem? Well the good news is that viable plastic-free options are out there.
ALL NATURAL SOAP CO offers a non absorbent soap pad made from Coir, the fibrous husk from the outside of a coconut. This allows the soap to drain away between uses, and is 100% biodegradable and compostable. Alternatively, the brand markets more traditional style soap holder made from wood based bioplastic using by products from the paper industry, and at the end of its life is biodegradable.
Soap star brand ethique supports its bar range with a compostable In-Shower Soap container made from Bamboo and Cornstarch, which is plastic free and lasts around 5 years.
A bar container will require an initial outlay by the consumer when starting use these types of products, which may be an additional purchase barrier, but any soap brand should be looking to offer a viable solution to overcome a messy user experience.
So what does this mean for the beauty market
this category will continue to evolve as consumers trial bars for the first time, understand the benefits of solid soap and are surprised by the product quality and benefits. Solid bars with strong eco-credentials will be key in supporting beauty retailers environmental policies. Innovative NPD launches are also likely to catch the eye of the Press, who are regularly reviewing and curating the best solid bars out there, helping to provide consumer education and engagement growing market.
If you are interested in finding out more or would like some support with a cleansing or shampoo bar launch get in touch.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
The evolution of inclusivity and accessibility in beauty
Since the ground-breaking launch of Fenty Beauty and the normalisation of 40 shades of foundation in September 2017, the beauty industry was challenged to quickly evolve, developing products and marketing campaigns where diversity is the focus.
It’s fantastic that we are expressing and celebrating differences in skin colour, body shape and gender-fluid consumers through beauty but there is still some hesitation from brands to break the current stereotypes and boundaries to accommodate for further reaches of ‘diversity’ (such as mental and physical health).
By 2021, WGSN predicts that the inclusivity movement will continue to grow with the inclusion of physical and mental needs; considering about 15% of the world's population lives with some form of disability, it is a reasonable assumption that consumers are asking brands to provide uncomplicated solutions that tailor for the vast variety of specialised and functional impairments.
Is the market adapting quickly enough?
The solution for ‘healthy’ or ‘good health’ has always classically been linked with blending all the green vegetables in your fridge into a smoothie or completing a daily 5km run before 7am, but consumers are beginning to understand that their mental state, self-acceptance and happiness is fundamental and equally as important for their well-rounded personal health. Mintel’s 2019 research on mental health, shared that 42% of US consumers are putting a lot of emphasis towards their wellbeing; highlighting a clear direction to all consumer facing brands. Lifting the lid on other industries, like fashion, we see how retailers and brands are slowly changing and beginning to throw their support behind inclusivity and accessibility.
Accessible Fashion
Fashion brands have taken a stance to improve their inclusivity and acceptance via strong marketing campaigns and considered clothing ranges. Imani Barbarinin rightly articulates in her article for Disability Horizons ‘Disability and fashion: 5 adaptive clothing lines we love’ that “people with disabilities deserve the choice of self-expression using fashion and it is great that designers have begun to take notice of the limitations of mainstream fashion”.
Brands are taking note - Tommy Hilfiger unveiled Tommy Adaptive in Spring 2020 which includes a variety of pieces that have modifications such as bungee cord closures, magnetic buttons and one-handed zippers. Whilst developing the range, Tommy Hilfiger worked closely with the disabled community to ensure that significant improvements were made previous lines (first launched a range in 2016 for children with disabilities.) As well as launching an empowering campaign, Hilfiger also released a behind the scenes video where director James Rath, who is legally blind, discusses his approach to the story telling and how he built the narrative around the clothes.
Online fashion retailer ASOS uses models that represent groups that have not classically been seen in fashion; collaborating with Great Britain archery Paralympic hopeful Chloe Ball-Hopkins to release a tie-dye waterproof jumpsuit that was adaptable to be wheelchair friendly. Stemmed from the idea of wanting to feel fashionable at festivals, Chloe says “[wheelchair bound consumers] don't want to have to look like we're just doing practicality, we still want to be able to look fashionable" so the jumpsuit was created to ensure that the same version could be bought, whether wheelchair bound or not.
Missguided launched another great campaign in 2019 campaign ‘#MAKEYOURMARK’ (following up on the brilliant #InYourOwnSkin campaign in 2018) encouraging consumers to love themselves, for themselves and for who they are . Body positivity has seen a huge increase in activity on social channels and brands are beginning to understand they need to have a legitimate voice in the conversation. In their campaign, Missguided discuss how ‘we put our bodies through so much mental and physical stress, it is vital that we learn to love and appreciate what we have’. Couldn’t agree more!
“Do not strive for what the world perceives as perfection. Because f*ck perfection, it doesn’t exist.
”
CAN BEAUTY BE MORE THAN SKIN DEEP?
Just as fashion brands are throwing their support into body positivity, many beauty brands have stepped up and used platforms such as Mental Healthy Awareness month as an opportunity to promote their mental health supporting projects or launch new initiatives in support of certain causes. The industry seems to currently be split into 2 active approaches to supporting accessibility:
1. Donations
We often see brands partnering with charities to support them with their wellbeing and mental health missions. A prime example is Philosophy Skincare’s Hope & Grace Initiative where every product sold donates a percentage to the charity WISH (a user-led charity working with women with mental health needs.) Since 2014, they have raised $43m and have supported over 1.5m women during their time of need.
2. Improving consumer reach
Brands are started to understand that their products are not always accessible to certain consumers. Supporting 253 million people worldwide or 23 million people in the US today who are visually impaired, Herbal Essences has produced the first-ever mass hair care bottle that will make it easier for consumers to distinguish their shampoo and conditioner through sense of touch. By adding a small tactile adaption to each bottle; raised lines on the shampoo and raised circles on the conditioner, Herbal Essences are hoping all consumers, such as the elderly (not just visually impaired) will benefit from the new feature.
Grace Beauty, a brand and community platform have announced in March 2019 they will be launching three mascara add-ons for easier handling. They allow for a better grip, control and ultimately safety whilst applying mascara and the response, in their own words has been unexpected and overwhelming.
We can see from the above examples that brands are starting to recognise the consumer want and need to feel accepted and part of the beauty community, regardless of their differences. It is remarkable and recognisable how far the beauty industry has developed and how many brands are making a stance against the ‘norm’, but there is still a lot of changes that could be made to improve inclusivity and accessibility.
Small changes but HUGE improvements
When digging deeper, we found that the significant changes fell into two categories - focusing on the emotional/mental health and physical needs of consumers - we’ve shared a few examples and thoughts on how brands could adapt moving forwards.
Emotional
With the growing exposure and support for mental health, such as, Mental Health Awareness Week and International Men’s Day, it seems the beauty industry needs to evolve further into helping this consumer need with mood-enhancing products that directly address emotional health. 72% of British females aged 16-24 are interested in using a fragrance to de-stress and almost half to boost mental clarity so it has become clear that beauty products are becoming the ‘go-to’ remedy for consumers to enhance their feelings and mood - they are realising that low energy levels can be addressed whilst proactively managing appearance.
The classic beauty routine is merging into a self-care routine and brands will need to ensure their products are packed with key and sensorial features such as essential oils and simple and transparent ingredients. Consumers are beginning to look at both proven and unproven modalities as their emotional health and product claims relating to this are increasing and becoming more important than the physical benefits.
Physical
61m adults in the USA live with a disability and the beauty industry is finally recognising that it’s their social responsibility to make their products accessible to all and there is also a large untapped market for them to explore and lead the revolution to ensure that everyone can feel at their best. We found there are a number of ways that brands could greatly improve their stance on accessibility by taking small steps - ranging from improving durable packaging, partnering with manufacturers whose key focus is supporting those with physical disabilities and co-creating products with key influencers to develop relevant product ranges. Whilst there are brands that are moving towards a more inclusive position, recognition and development is along way off from being a universal in its approach.
Understanding the future of inclusivity and accessibility
The beauty industry is beginning to offer products for a wider demographic, but there are still products, brands and retailers out there that seem a million miles away from many consumers with emotional needs and physical disabilities. Imagine an industry where every person, no matter their skin colour, body shape, mental state or with a form of disability could feel empowered enough to use the same mascara.
Obviously any brand looking to move into a truly inclusive and accessible product arena needs to do so from a position of being authentic and wanting to make changes for the greater good but now, more than ever, seems the time to acknowledge the vast, diverse range of needs and make a change.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
Further reading
https://www.byrdie.com/charitable-beauty-brands-mental-health
https://www.missguided.co.uk/campaign/make-your-mark
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/newsbeat-44721385
https://www.who.int/disabilities/world_report/2011/report/en/
https://www.philosophyskincare.co.uk/hope-and-grace.html
https://www.mintel.com/blog/beauty-market-news/beauty-spot-beauty-taps-into-the-emotions
https://www.mintel.com/blog/new-market-trends/you-heard-it-here-first-brands-without-limits
UNDERSTANDING CLEAN BEAUTY
Clean beauty is still a hot topic in the beauty world, starting as a niche positioning for brands which then became mainstream.
27% of US consumers now look for skincare products with as few ingredients as possible. (Mintel 2019)
76% of consumers felt misled by the labels on beauty products. (Soil Association 2019)
60% of consumers who desire clean products also want to see more “kitchen-like” ingredients. (Cosmetics & Toiletries 2018)
2/3 of consumers read ingredient labels for transparency. (Cosmetic & Toiletries 2018)
53% of consumers of FMCG said that the absence of undesirable ingredients in products is more important than the inclusion of beneficial ones. (Nielsen’s 2018 )
½ consumers globally identified “natural” claims as one of the top factors in purchase decisions. (Cosmetic & Toiletries 2018)
4 x the amount of vegan searches in the last 5 years. (Google 2019)
Many consumers are now looking for a clean approach to beauty and it is clear that there has been a shift in consumers attitudes, but do they really know what ‘clean beauty’ means? The answer is probably no. The reason I say that is because there is no universal definition or standard for ‘clean beauty’.
In this blog we breakdown the different approaches to clean beauty so you can decide what is important to your brand and consumer. To help further, we’ve collated them into 3 key areas.
Free From…
Natural & Organic
Animal Testing
Free from
Free from claims appear on many products and are often looked for by consumers. So before we delve into free from claims, it is worth noting that in the EU over 1,250 ingredients are banned from usage in cosmetics products and this list is always under review.
So, what type of free from claims are there.
Free from artificial fragrance. Artificial fragrances are often avoided as they can increase skin sensitivity so brands can opt for natural fragrances or hypo-allergenic fragrances that utilise a predetermined list of ingredients tested as suitable for sensitive skin.
Free from mineral oils. Mineral oils have been used for many years in the beauty industry with products such as Vaseline and baby oil using these as a main ingredient. They were used as a cheap and lightweight moisturising agent to help reduce water loss from the skin. However, they have been known to clog pores and cause blackheads or spots.
Free from silicones. Silicones have quite split views. Critics of their use reference that they can trap dirt in the skin which can clog pores and cause breakouts. They also claim that silicones block other active ingredients from getting through and are hard to remove from the skin. Supporters of silicones herald their usage for improvements to formula feel, leaving the skin feeling soft and silky. They claim silicones do not clog the pores as the scientific make up of silicones are too thick to penetrate. They also claim they do not trap dirt or stop penetration of other actives again due to their scientific make up. They act much like a tea bag – when applied to the skin any actives seep into the skin, much like tea infuses with water.
Free from SLS. Sodium lauryl sulphate is a great foaming agent and used in many facial cleansers and body washes. However, it is known to be a drying agent and strip the skin of moisture. Top tip – you skin should NOT squeak after you wash it. This means you have over cleansed.
Free from phthalates. (DBP, DMP, DEHP, DEP) Phthalates were historically used in certain beauty products such as nail varnishes to reduce cracking and in hair spray to help reduce stiffness. DBP and DMP have been discontinued by the cosmetics industry. DEP is only periodically used, and most manufacturers are no longer using this ingredient. Others such as DEHP have no history of use in cosmetics products.
Free from parabens. Parabens are used to help extend the shelf life of cosmetics products and help prevent the growth of mould and bacteria within formulas. In studies it has been found that parabens have been found in tissue cells showing that they can penetrate the skin. It cannot be said categorically that parabens are bad for us but there are now other preservatives that manufacturers can use in their place.
Free from alcohol. When it comes to alcohol there is good and bad alcohol (and we are not talking cocktails!). The decision to be taken is if alcohol adds a benefit to the product type. Alcohols to 100% avoid include SD alcohol, denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. Whereas, fatty alcohols in small amounts can improve skin texture and keep certain ingredients stable. These include cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohol.
Free from artificial colours. Colours were previously used to help make formulations look more appealing or fit with a brands identity. There is no added skin benefit to this approach and artificial colours can increase skin sensitivity so should be avoided.
Natural & Organic
Many consumers look for natural or organic products. How a brand decides what is ‘natural’ has been open to interpretation with many brands using ‘derived from’ claims previously. If brands want to truly develop as natural there are certain standards to follow. These include COSMOS certification through the Soil Association or ISO 16128.
The difference between natural and organic has also been often confused. Natural products contain ingredients from plants or nature. Organic products take this to the next level and are made with non-GMO ingredients that have been grown and manufactured without chemicals.
Determining how natural your products are really does need some thought and how important this is to the consumer should be top of mind. You can take the approach of selecting the best ingredients to achieve you desired results and some of these will be natural and others not. You can decide to approach with a % natural claim or go fully natural.
Animal Testing & Vegan
Leaping Bunny is a great accreditation that can be put onto your products to certify that you have not tested on animals. It worth noting that the EU has had certain bans on animal testing for ingredients and finished products since 2003, and more recently in 2013 the EU completed a full ban on the sale of cosmetic animal-tested products. Many consumers do not understand this law and there is still confusion around this topic.
The vegan approach to life has been on the increase over the last few years. Google cited that vegan related searches quadrupled in the last 5 years and it now has 3 times more interest than vegetarian. Vegan products do not contain any ingredients derived from animals and can include mainly commonly used ingredients including honey, collagen, gelatin, keratin.
How does this affect your brand?
Hopefully you now feel a bit more informed om clean beauty. My overall recommendation on how to approach this is to really think about your consumer; listen to what they are asking for, know what are they looking for from their beauty products and tailor your brand and product decisions to meet their needs.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LAUNCH A NEW BEAUTY PRODUCT?
For years brands, suppliers and retailers have been quoted as saying it takes at least two years to develop beauty products. On the other hand, there are fast beauty brand who have launched in just a matter of months.
So, who is right? The answer is both - it depends on what you need and when you need it.
If you are looking at a major launch within a big corporate operation it could take two years or even more. There are often months of consumer research, concept ideation & testing, many stakeholders to engage and numerous boards to present to. This process alone can take a year, and you haven’t even started to develop the products.
Timing will also be dictated by the type of product you want to develop. If you are working on the next breakthrough in clinically proven anti-ageing you can go through months or even years of creating formulas, testing these and not achieving the results you need to. Or, if you want to develop a monograph product (a US registered drug such as SPF) there is a minimum testing requirement that can put development lead times up to 18 months!
The issue with taking two years is that you are missing out on trends and ingredients that are created, realised and done before the year is out. So how do you do it quicker?
The answer could be that the manufacturers have done the leg work for you. They have their own laboratories and scientists whose sole role it is to create the next generation beauty products - they are looking at the same trends as you and fantasising over the possibilities with the newest ingredients.
If these ready to go products tick the boxes of your brief, then go for it! Don’t feel the need to tinker with something they have spent months finessing.
The other way to improve your speed to launch is to work with one of these ready to go products but tweak (with something that is essential to your brand or consumer of course). This might be a shade of lipstick inspired by the catwalk or an ingredient that has to be present in all of your brand’s products. By working with formulations that are already developed and tested you not only reduce your development time but also your risk.
In summary, yes you can develop a product in a few months, or it can take 2 years. It all depends on your needs.
THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH
WHY IS SO SLEEP IMPORTANT?
We’ve been looking into sleep and how the quality and the amount we get can affect our health and wellbeing. It’s a fascinating (if not a bit scary) subject and if you don’t get enough, can lead to all sorts of negative implications.
The lack of sleep is becoming a worldwide epidemic - 47% of British adults say they ‘would try anything’ to improve their sleep quality and an estimated 10 million people in the United States remain un-diagnosed for Insomnia. With plenty of ‘over the counter’ (OTC) and natural remedies available to improve the sleep state and relax the mind, it feels we might be missing an opportunity to focus on the physical affects that sleep loss can have on the skin and hair.
Why do we have trouble sleeping?
Why do we fall into negative rhythms and what can be done?
Our bodies work off a Circadian clock that regulates everything from the body’s temperature, pH balance and repair processes. Whilst we are winding down (usually in the evening) and preparing for bed, the compound adenosine rises in the brain which signals a shift towards sleep and our body temperature naturally decreases by 1 to 2 degrees in order to conserve energy for other functions. Whilst our body and mind should be preparing for sleep, unfortunately, our most essential Circadian rhythm, the ‘sleep-wake cycle’ is regularly being disrupted by external factors such as environment temperature, stress and anxiety. Although you may not think a bad night’s sleep can have such a harmful effect, a regular lack of sleep can cause long-term effects such as varying mood states, memory loss and trouble concentrating and a weakened immune system which can lead to skin breakouts and more seriously, can increase the risk of developing diabetes. When these natural ‘sleep-wake’ inclinations are interrupted, as well as leaving us feeling exhausted (and often even more stressed), there is also a detrimental effect on mental and physical wellbeing.
Why is good nights sleep important?
Getting a good night’s sleep or enough non-REM sleep (deep sleep) is crucial for the brain and bodily functions to repair themselves. Whilst we are in deep sleep, which should account for 40% of our sleep time, our blood pressure drops and breathing becomes very slow. The brain is in rest state and carries out little activity so blood supply to our (usually overworked) muscles increases. This allows for large amounts oxygen and nutrients to be delivered into the muscles which facilitates healing and growth. Our bodies also clear themselves of the build-up of adenosine which allows us to feel alert and refreshed upon waking up.
As well as allowing our minds to rest and restore, a good night’s sleep is vital to allow skin cells to regenerate, renew and rid of toxins. Sleep deprivation causes skin to become imbalanced and for the blood vessels to dilate which causes the appearance of dark circles beneath the eyes. When the pH levels drop, skin is unable to produce the optimum moisture levels which in turn leaves skin looking and feeling dry, uneven and less radiant. Matt Walker discusses in the TED talk ‘Sleep is Your Super Power’ that having a restricted 4 hours of sleep in a single night shows a 70% drop in natural killer cell activity, which shows a concerning state of immune deficiency hence leading skin to be more vulnerable to bacteria and in turn breakouts. He shares a number of further sleep deprived experiment results and also some extremely interesting stats regarding daylight saving, for example, there is a 24% increase in heart attacks the following day!
Our minds, bodies and skin are programmed to follow our Circadian rhythms, especially the ‘sleep-wake’ cycle to ensure that our internal systems are functioning optimally. When these cycles are broken, we are essentially disrupting rhythms that keep us healthy; we are at higher risk of physical and emotional illnesses. Sleep allows for the healing properties to work, for example, our hormones rebalance to be in sync with the brain, the immune system is recharged and cellular repair of all the organ systems (including skin) is accomplished. Essentially, sleep equals a healthy body as well as a healthy mind, so although missing out on a good night sleep might not seem to affect you (or this is what you choose to believe whilst on your third black coffee of the day), it can have significant internal and external consequences.
So what can be done?
There is always some new thought on how much sleep we should be getting, what we should be doing and why our lifestyles are to blame–we do know that avoiding phones and tablets before bed, does help the brain to kick into the ‘sleep process’ – blue light is reported to negative effects on the brain as well as the skin so by changing behaviours, we know we can make small steps to make improvements. Obviously, there are many brands we can buy into, with a great selection of products which claim to help, but not all necessarily available at a reasonable price point. In the beauty sector, there are brands offering products such as face serums, body creams and pillow sprays with incredible sleep and skincare claims, but some do come with a significant price tag. Regardless of the great reviews, is it right that the ‘promise’ of sleep comes at a higher price point? Given the stats and the apparent size of the problem, should there be more affordable sleep solutions more widely available?
We think that this area is one to watch and look forward to seeing how the category develops solutions to an increasing problem for people of all ages and demographics - an opportunity that we think is significant for both retailers and consumers.