A QUICK GUIDE TO DEVELOPING A NEW BEAUTY PRODUCT

Want to launch a new beauty brand, or wondering how to grow your existing one? Don’t know where to start?

We’re a small but mighty team of beauty industry experts, who love working with entrepreneurs to help bring their brands to life.

View fullsize

A BIT ABOUT US

Sam, our lovely founder, has a wealth of experience working for beauty retailers and design agencies, and has built a team of experienced product development specialists to offer a full end-to-end service for a success beauty launch.

So where do conversations usually start with our clients looking to bring their beauty ideas to life? The most important stage of all - THE PRODUCT BRIEF….

BUILDING THE BRIEF

The quality of a beauty product brief developed at the beginning of any beauty development launch will define how smoothly the project runs.

We aim to walk through all aspects of a new product brief that will define a clear vision for the product, from concept creation through to carton board spec. Whether its claims, ingredient traceability or fragrances, we aim to outline what really matters to each unique product and brand. This process often helps to drive forward innovation and help make sure the product really stands out against the competition.

BUDGETS AND COMMERCIALS

Spending time at the beginning of a project discussing all potential project costs is key. Honesty and transparency is key here so that we rule out what isnt going to add value, and make sure we cover off all the must-have spend with clear reasoning of why its needed.

FINDING THE RIGHT MANUFACTURING PARTNER

Whether the priorities are COG, sustainable credentials or the manufacturer location to support supply chain requirements, its key that the brand and manufacturer are aligned in values and expectations.

Often the response to brief from manfacturers will give an early indication on who really “gets” you and your brief, and what you want to achieve. You may be working with the manufacturer for many years so its important to get this decision right!

DESIGN

The exciting bit! The look and feel of any beauty product cannot be underestimated. It showcases who the product is targeted at, the quality of the product, the sustainability ethos of the brand…basically it’s key to nail this for your brand launch.

At this stage you also need to be clear on your vision for key messaging on your product is critical e.g. product claims and brand comms. We can support you to create a knock-out brief for a designer to get to work. We also have some amazing design partners who have years of experience working on beauty product design, so you can land a on-brand pack design to grab your customers attention vs the competition.

PROJECT MANAGEMENT

So you’ve got your brand positioning, product brief and manufacturing partner lined up. What comes next?

From formulation and packaging approval, critical paths, claims testing regulatory support, artwork creation…..every aspect of a beauty product launch needs to be managed to launch on time and on budget. We can help you plan for what to expect and how to keep your launch on track.

SETTING UP FOR A SUCCESSFUL LAUNCH

As a skincare brand owner herself (hi Clear Skin Days!) Sam Murton has first hand experience on what is needed to set up for a strong brand launch.

From website creation, sales support for beauty bricks and mortar and e-retailers, warehousing services, drop-ship services, introductions to beauty PR partners, amazon account support - basically we can help with anything that you might need outside of the actual product launch to help hit your commercial targets. Even if you have already created your product, we work with existing brand owners to help elevate your brand in market.

ANYTHING ELSE YOU NEED!

Product photography? Product mock-ups? Translations? Anything that you might need to support your beauty brand is possible.

If you would like to find out more about the beauty coaching and beauty support services we can provide get in touch for a chat.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LAUNCH A NEW BEAUTY PRODUCT?

For any new beauty brand, one of the first challenges they will come up against is trying to plan a firm launch date for their new product range.

So what sort of timings should you plan for when developing a new beauty product launch??

For years brands, suppliers and retailers have been quoted as saying it takes at least two years to develop beauty products. On the other hand, there are fast beauty brand who have launched in just a matter of months.

So, who is right? The answer is both - it depends on what you need and when you need it.

If you are looking at a major launch within a big corporate operation it could take two years or even more. There are often months of consumer research, concept ideation & testing, many stakeholders to engage and numerous boards to present to. This process alone can take a year, and you haven’t even started to develop the products.

Timing will also be dictated by the type of product you want to develop. If you are working on the next breakthrough in clinically proven anti-ageing you can go through months or even years of creating formulas, testing these and not achieving the results you need to. Or, if you want to develop a monograph product (a US registered drug such as SPF) there is a minimum testing requirement that can put development lead times up to 18 months!

The issue with taking two years is that you are missing out on trends and ingredients that are created, realised and done before the year is out. So how do you do it quicker?

The answer could be that the manufacturers have done the leg work for you. They have their own laboratories and scientists whose sole role it is to create the next generation beauty products - they are looking at the same trends as you and fantasising over the possibilities with the newest ingredients. If these ready to go / off-the-shelf products tick the boxes of your brief, then go for it! Don’t feel the need to tinker with something they have spent months crafting and perfecting.  

The other way to improve your speed to launch is to work with one of these ready to go products but tweak (with something that is essential to your brand or consumer of course). This might be a shade of lipstick inspired by the catwalk or an ingredient that has to be present in all of your brand’s products. By working with formulations that are already developed and tested you not only reduce your development time but also your risk.

In summary, yes you can develop a product in a few months, or it can take 2 years. It all depends on whether your product simply needs to hit a current trend, and you can source a great ready-to-go product from a manufacturer, or whether you want to develop something truly innovative in the market. 

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

WHY IS EVERYONE TALKING ABOUT THE SKIN BARRIER?

With over 2.5bnviews on Tiktok the #skinbarrier is big news in the skincare industry right now.

Whether it’s at the core of new skincare product development, being discussed by influencers and beauty press, or being heavily researched by consumers who want to know more about it, the skin barrier has gone beyond a trend and moved into a core pillar of the skincare industry.

So what is it, and why is the skin barrier such a huge topic?

THE ROLE OF THE SKIN BARRIER

To understand why the barrier such a focus, it’s important to look at the fundamental role it plays in overall skin health. It’s the bodies first line of defence and has two vital roles:

Hydration - Internally regulates water loss and retains moisture, ensuring water and electrolytes do not evaporate from the skin

Protection - Externally shields from external aggressors such as bacteria, chemicals, pollutants, irritants & UV

WHAT IS THE SKIN BARRIER?

The barrier is in the outermost level of our skin within the Stratum Corneum in the Epidermis. Contained in the skin barrier are 3 main layers:

The Lipid barrier, which is protected by our Acid Mantle and above this is our Microbiome:

Microbiome - The skin microbiome is the billions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses that comprise the skin microbiota. The natural bacteria maintains the skin’s immunity and prevents pathogenic growth

Acid mantle - The Hydrolipidic film on the skin's surface made from sweat and sebum that has a pH of around 5.5. It's acidic nature acts as barrier to unwanted bacteria. It also supports a balanced microbiome and locks in hydration

Lipid barrier - Composed of Ceramides, Cholesterol & Free Fatty Acids, it supports the skin barrier function by reducing Trans-Epidermal Water Loss and protects from external chemicals, pollutants, irritants & UV

If a skin barrier is healthy then skin should feel at its best - soft, supple and hydrated. Likewise, the cause and effect of a #damagedbarrier is under the spotlight and is linked to a wide range of skin issues.

A DAMAGED SKIN BARRIER

What does this mean when our skin barrier is compromised? Well, unfortunately it can lead to a wide range of skin concerns:

• Cracks in the Lipid Matrix can allow irritants such as bacteria to penetrate skin, leading to breakouts. Gaps can also allow water to escape which can cause skin to become dehydrated

• A disrupted microbiome can lead to an imbalance between the beneficial and harmful bacteria, resulting in skin conditions such as acne and rosacea

• An imbalanced pH can lead to an overgrowth of bacteria, leading to skin irritations such acne & dryness

With the range of skin concerns linked a disrupted barrier, no wonder the skincare industry is heavily focused on barrier repair. As a result, new launches are coming thick and fast from all skincare brands which will continue into 2023.

So, if barrier health has always been so important, and so many varied skin concerns can be linked back to a disrupted barrier, why is it such a topic of conversation now in the skincare industry?

SKIN BARRIER TREND INFLUENCERS

• The long standing wellness movement helped to drive a focus on skin health rather than just skin aesthetics. Multiple skin wellness trends have since emerged, such as pre/pro/post biotic skincare for a healthy microbiome and the embracing of ceramides through brands like CeraVe to promote skin health. The foundation of all these skin-wellness trends is always taking care of the skin barrier

• #skinimalism has driven a change in brand and consumer behaviour. Complicated, multi-step skincare routines fell out of favour during the pandemic, driven by factors such as more mindful purchasing and concerns that high strength layered ingredients were irritating skin. The push for simplicity helped the industry to really hone in on solving the root cause of skin conditions, supporting again the focus on the skin barrier

• Protecting skin from external aggressors has been a long standing mission in skincare industry e.g. through SPF, pollution shields, blue light shields and wide-spread use of antioxidants. Promoting a healthy skincare barrier has naturally emerged from this, helping to nurture and strengthen your skins natural defences against external irritants

• The viral #cleangirl aesthetic showed off fresh-faced beauty on Tiktok, ideally with minimal makeup, which again focused attention on the goal of naturally healthy skin. The conversation around the skin barrier has blown up on Tiktok, which will continue into 2024 and beyond

We hope that’s helped to break down the need-to-knows on the skin barrier.

The great news for our skin is that improving barrier health will continue to be a focus in skincare industry for the foreseeable future.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR OWN BEAUTY BRAND

Beauty is big business.

Globally worth around $528 billion, the BeAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE market is now fully democratised with tradtional beauty powerhouse brands existing alongside celebrity brands, retailer own labels and market disrupting entreprenuers.

If you have the passion and budget, the beauty market is open to anyone who dreams of owning their own beauty business.

So if you are thinking about taking the first steps on your beauty brand journey, we thought it would good to share some thoughts on what to plan for first. As a team with decades of beauty development experience with large global retailers as well as beauty start-ups, we have experienced and worked through many bumps in the end-to-end product development journey.

So, where do you start?

BRAND DEVELOPMENT

When you have a spark of an idea, spend quality time working through your brand vision and plan.
What will your brand stand for and what are its values? Who is the target customer and why? Where will your brand be positioned in the market vs its competitors?
Laying down the brand foundations at the beginning, and understanding what will make it stand out from a crowd, is vital to set a clear path ahead and anchor all the decisions you make in the future.

BUDGET

Speak to an experienced product developer early on to understand the sort of costs involved in launching a beauty brand. There are many areas of costs to be aware of and factor into budgets at the outset - from regulatory support through to website creation. The more questions you ask at the beginning of your project will make sure you can set up your product brief and launch for success.

It may also be helpful to reach out to other beauty entrepreneurs to make sure you have a view of what costs to expect. Many in the beauty industry are happy to share their experiences! This will help to ensure you are going into your beauty launch with your eyes open and aren’t caught out late into your project.

TIMINGS

Depending on the type of beauty product you are planning to create, its important to be aware of timings. Even if you take off-the-shelf formulations, packaging and raw materials can be on leadtimes of up to 16 weeks. For new formulations testing will take 3 months, and for true innovation or SPF products you may find that project leadtimes stretch to 18+ months.

Once you know more about the leadtimes expected to develop a new range, work with a product developer to draft a project timeplan with deadlines for all key activities, and set a clear, realistic launch date to drive the pace of your decisions.

PRODUCT BRIEF

When drafting your brief for your product launch, think about every aspect of the formulation that matters to you. Whether its formulation claims (e.g. vegan), texture or fragrance, you need a clear idea about what you are looking for and what is going to matter to your customer. Then when you speak to product and formulation developers, you have the foundations of your product ready to build upon.

Understanding what markets you want to launch is is important to consider at this stage as well. This will make sure your formulators take into account the relevant regulatory compliance for that region.

If the first attempts don’t meet your vision, spend the time revisiting the brief and making sure you know what want to improve so you can give the clearest feedback possible.

For packaging do your research with experienced developers to understand what are your must-haves and what are your nice-to-haves. Sustainability will be one of the first things to discuss. Go out to beauty stores to look at whats out there in the market, so you can pull together examples of the sorts of packs you do and don’t like. This will set up conversations with your developer about what is going to work within your budget.

Finally, have a clear idea on your RRP, margin and target cost of goods. This will help make sure you achieve the best possible product within your budget.

MANUFACTURING PARTNER

An experienced product development agency will have a trusted network of manufacturing partners across the globe. This means you can issue your product brief to a number of manufacturers and select the best partner for you based on response to brief.

Make sure you know what to expect around things like production tolerances, management of excess components and payment terms. Standard terms and ways of working can vary, so having an early conversation on this means that you and your manufacturing partner are on the same page from the outset.

LAUNCH PLAN
Understanding which markets you want to target is really key not only to shape your product brief, but also to set up the right conversations with retailers and distributors. What are your priorities for launch markets, and where do you want to focus in the future?

Again, speak to industry experts about setting up for retailer conversations so you know what sort of questions to prepare for. The earlier you start these conversations the better so you can shape your launch plans early.

Take the time to find the right partners for PR, marketing and website development. There is no point coming up with an amazing product if nobody knows it exists!

We hope this helps with getting started on your beauty brand journey - it’s an amazing industry which we love working in!

If you would like some support delivering your beauty range to market, please get in touch for chat.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

2023 BEAUTY TREND FORECAST

2022 was a huge year for beauty trends, as we carried through habits formed during the pandemic and rediscovered beauty that we put aside in lockdown.

From the fast beauty trends (shaggy mullet anyone?) through to the trend winners (glowy skin!) 2022 was a year we could have fun and be experimental with beauty again.

So what does that mean for beauty in 2023? read on to find out more about our top 5 trend predictions set to dominate the beauty world over the next 12 months…..

SKIN WELLNESS

Barrier care has been a hot topic in the beauty world for some time now and it’s only going to get bigger in 2023 as more consumers become aware of the benefits of a healthy barrier. If your skin barrier is functioning at its best to retain hydration and protect against external aggressors, then skin is less prone to issues such as dryness, sensitivity, or acne.

So, what does that mean for the beauty world? Ingredients that help to strengthen the skin barrier such as Ceramides, Niacinamide and Omega Fatty Acids will be must-have inclusions in new beauty launches.

Ingredients that focus on the repair of a damaged barrier will also be in demand, such as humectants like Hyaluronic Acid and skin soothers like Aloe Extract. Skin slugging will evolve into skin flooding with a focus on intense hydration. So not exactly new news in terms of ingredients, but the education around why they are important, their inclusion in products, and the consumer demand for these ingredients will all grow in strength.

Finally, skincare launches will layer in multiple ingredients that are formulated to take the guesswork out of layering and focus on accessible ways to achieve healthy skin. Community66 is a example of a brand leading the way with this trend.

SKIN TINT HYBRIDS

As we invest in skin wellness for a dewy skin glow, there becomes less need to cover it up. As a result, we see the trend for lightweight skin tints, tinted moisturisers, serums and SPFs continuing to grow in 2023.

Designed to enhance your natural skin glow and infused with skin-loving ingredients, lightweight skin perfecters are not new formats - BB creams blew up this trend in 2011.

However, ingredient and texture innovation will continue to engage new consumers, especially with hybrid benefits appealing to consumers with tighter budgets in the cost-of-living crisis.

NAILED IT

2022 officially saw Hailey Bieber bringing back nail trends.

During the pandemic and economic downturn, nails were deprioritised with nail salons taking a hit. The glazed donut nails changed that, with a renewed focus on nail colour, finishes and shapes once again.

Heading in 2023 ombre nails, chrome nails and clean girl nails are already hot, but it’s the next viral Hailey nail moment that will get us all posting our latest nail look.

EYE LINER EXPERIMENTATION

Eyeliner always offers up the opportunity for application innovation and trend looks, and 2023 will be no different. Following Wednesday inspiring a new surge of gothic grunge makeup, eyeliner will continue to be bold and heavy in 2023. Whether its flicks, fully layered or criss-crossed in the corner, liner is easier than ever to master with social tutorials and product innovation. Gemstones will also offer a new way to play with accent liner looks.

NEXT GEN ACTIVE AGING

Anti-ageing is long gone and for years pro-age has been more of a focus, with the attitude that aging is a privilege and should be celebrated.

In 2023 products and ingredients for addressing mature skin needs such as lines and dullness will be a focus, in parallel with the “notox” trend for supporting the skin without the need for invasive treatments. This will be done with an attitude of transparency and honest conversations, with ageing being nothing to be ashamed of but also not brushed aside or deemed irrelevant for beauty users.

As a result, much- loved ingredients such as Peptides, Collagen, Retinol will all be prioritised, alongside new age supportive ingredient heroes such as Chebula and Resveratrol.

Thanks for reading! For more info on these trend predictions please get in touch for a chat.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

TIKTOK BEAUTY HACKS – THE WEIRD, USELESS AND DOWNRIGHT DANGEROUS

AhhH social media, the place where everything appears believable, all seems possible, and sometimes people will quite literally try ANYTHING!  

We consumers have always been on the hunt for a hint, trick or tip that’s going to make our lives that little bit easier, and then along came TikTok to revolutionise the world of beauty hacks!

But is erection cream really the next lip plumper and will garlic cloves actually relieve sinus pain, or are hundreds of consumers putting their health at risk with these bizarre beauty tips?

Here is a countdown of our dubious TikTok beauty hack highlights…

GARLIC NOSE

Not strictly beauty, but this ‘wellness hack’ by Rozaline Katherine gained millions of views for apparently helping clear out your sinus by stuffing garlic cloves up each nostril for 15 mins, which when removed, causes your nose to run.  Experts were quick to advise against this hack; not only is there the possibility of things getting stuck where they shouldn’t, but the reason your nose runs so extremely is because the garlic cloves irritate the nasal lining...Best to stick to vapor rubs to clear sinus’ we think!

VAGINAL STEAMING

Another trend that has gained millions of views advises women that squatting over hot water mixed with herbs will improve the smell of your vagina and fertility. As pointed out by Cosmo, Vagina’s are self-cleaning organs that do their own thing, and this steaming practice will upset the delicate PH balance. It definitely cannot help with fertility issues…so lets leave steaming to facials!

GLYCOLIC ACID DEODORANT

A much-loved ingredient for smooth and glowing skin, but what is it doing under our pits I hear you ask?! The hashtag #glycolicacidasdeodorant has racked up over 5.3 million views on TikTok for apparently preventing body odour, stopping sweating & reducing pigmentation.         

But is there any science to back up these Tiktokers’ fresh pits claims? Well, Glycolic acid is said to lower the pH of the underarm, creating an inhospitable environment for odour-causing bacteria. However, Refinery 29 explains that this hasn’t been substantiated, and water from sweat will neutralise glycolic acid which reduces any benefits.

We know that Glycolic Acid is effective at reducing pigmentation when used 2-3 per times per week on our face. However, we also know that it’s not usually recommended for sensitive skin. So considering the sensitive nature of our pits, there’s likely to be other products designed for underarm odour which may be more suitable than glycolic acid!  

With mixed reviews, and concern around suitability, efficacy and safety, we think there are more effective ways of naturally deodorising our armpits….Plus, the tingle on our face can be irritating enough, let alone that sensation on our underarms!

SUNSCREEN CONTOUR

It’s safe to say that we’re a generation obsessed with sunscreen! And, as if the beauty world wasn’t outraged enough by Gwyneth Paltrow's sunscreen tips, sunscreen contour became another application method to polarise consumers.

Beyonce’s makeup artist first suggested the method in 2016, and this later took off thanks to Eli Withrow when she shared her ‘naturally snatched’ look. This consisted of using SPF50 on the highlights of her face to block more UV rays, and SPF 30 on the shadows of her face, therefore allowing a deeper tan to develop. In theory, creating a ‘naturally’ contoured look.

The technique assumes that you can control the sun’s exposure through varying SPF levels, which is highly unlikely considering that all areas of the face will be exposed to different levels of sunlight. Instead, the method will probably result in a patchy tan and sunburn.

Also, and more importantly, there is no such thing as a healthy tan! Byrdie reminds us that exposing skin to more UV will help us age faster, expose to radiation more, and sacrifice to skin cancer. Therefore it’s important to follow expert advice when it comes to sunscreen application and avoid any ‘hacks’ which suggest using them differently to recommended….best to stick to the cream contour method.

While this has been a quick look into the potential dangers of misinformation, it doesn’t detract from how influential Tiktok has become in the world of beauty. Even Refinery 29 have a dedicated series all about tiktok hacks called Beauty In A Tik, where each week editors put TikTok's viral beauty hacks and innovative trends to the test.

As trends and hacks become a bigger part of our relationship with beauty, consumers have loved discovering new beauty tips on TikTok that really works for them. However, we think this will increasingly be balanced by education from trusted professionals to help filter out the positive from the negative advice.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Spotlight: The beauty subscription boom

Royal Mail has reported that 26% of Brits are now signed up to subscription boxes, either for themselves or as a gift for others. The value of this market in the UK is predicted to be £1.8 billion by 2025.

The pandemic over the last 18 months massively accelerated this trend as consumers limited trips outside the home to shop. Whether it’s coffee, candles, boxer shorts, laundry tabs, weekly meals, or shaving gear, subscription boxes are big business.

So what’s driving the success and what are the opportunities for the beauty industry?

We take a closer look….

The History of Subscriptions

Subscription models have been around since the 17th century, based on anything from signing up to regular deliveries of drinking water to book clubs. In the 1970s subscription TV was launched, and in the 2000s came subscription boxes. Today, the biggest sector is food and drink, with recipe services and pre-prepared meal deliveries worth £1 billion in the UK. Health and beauty subscription boxes have also boomed and are forecasted to be worth £92 million by 2025, with 11% of UK shoppers signed up to a health & beauty subscription box service.

So what has powered this success story?

• Convenience: The most obvious benefit is convenience. Subscription models offer a time-saving, hassle free option, especially for regular use of replenishment products like razors or deodorants

• Discovery: Consumers can trial products from brands they may never have discovered themselves if not stocked their usual retailers e.g. beer box subscriptions showcasing small, independent breweries. The expert curation also appeal to those who may be overwhelmed with choice in crowded markets

• Value: Subscription boxes often promote the value saving of their offer e.g. save £60 vs purchasing individually

• Gifting: With a subscription available for nearly anything, tailored time period options to suit any budget, and delivery to the lucky recipients door, subscription boxes make perfect gifts (or, lets face it, self treats)

The Beauty Players

Birchbox was launched in 2010, pioneered by Katia Beauchamp and Hayley Barna, aiming to reach customers who didn’t have the time, interest or expertise in shopping beauty themselves. For a monthly fee, customers could trial curated edits by beauty experts at home through sample and travel sized products, with full sized products available to buy on their online store if you discovered a product you loved. However, over the years Birchbox has struggled against rising competition as more and more players such as Glossybox entered the market. Retailers have increasingly got in on the act too, with brands like Look Fantastic, Lush, Sephora and Walmart all running subscription schemes.

Launched in 2016 by Marcia Kilgore, Beauty Pie has taken the beauty subscription model in a different direction. For a monthly membership fee, subscribers can access exclusive discounted pricing vs non-members, with the ambition of providing DTC high-end beauty products without the usual industry mark-up. A loyal membership base, know as the #PIEFAM, has quickly been established and growth shows no sign of slowing - Glossy reported that between April 20-21 Beauty Pies revenue grew in the UK by +100% and it’s membership doubled.

Beauty subscriptions thrive even the luxury end of the market, without the need for traditional expensive beauty counters and consultants. Both Cohorted and Mintdbox offers the chance to receive edits from exclusive, high end brands like Sunday Riley and VERSO which may not be available on every high street.

Beauty Subscription Trends

With endless choices of beauty boxes now available, brands are increasingly diversifying to create points of difference and build customer appeal. So what are some of the secrets to success?

Collaborations

It’s hard to find a beauty boxes that doesn’t feature a collaboration now, with brands like Glossybox teaming up with partners like Grazia to add credibility to the curated edits. The hype around the Caroline Hirons beauty boxes (although not subscription) demonstrates that consumers value a well regarded industry expert to help select the very best products for them in crowded markets. This also helps to keep the offer fresh for longer term subscribers.

Personalisation

Subscription offers also give customers the opportunity to personalise their experience, whether its selecting boxes tailored to skin type, usage need (e.g. summer skin), vegan beauty or signing up to personalised formulation services like Skin + Me with bespoke skincare solutions sent to your door. US based Atolla tailor skincare routines using assessments and skin tests to create personalised skin solutions, which are continually assessed to maintain the progress of your skincare routine.

The beauty personalisation trend has been around for years, but was always difficult to execute in bricks-and-mortar retail space. Subscription models offer a convenient and cost effective solution to this without having to try and navigate what’s right for you when in stood in front of endless rows of products in store.

Supplements

Beauty supplements, seen with brands like Dewty, have also become increasingly popular through subscription models, encouraging healthy habits and routines by taking away the barriers of remembering to buy and take them. Supplements also work well for this sort of longer term model because consumers will need to take for a period of time before benefiting.

Male Grooming Boxes

The male market has welcomed the move towards subscription boxes to meet the consumer demand for straightforward, convenient replenishment for purchases like shaving, and its big business. Unilever bought The Dollar Shave club for $1 billion in 2016, and in 2019 (just 6 years after forming!) Harry’s shaving firm was bought by the owner of Wilkinson Sword for $1.4 billion. However, that’s not to say that male boxes are just focused on convenience, with brands like Toppbox offering a top to toe grooming experience.

So what’s next?

There are certainly no signs that the subscription boom is going to stall. Emarsys research found that in the US 32% of 16-24 year olds in the US have a subscription, and Royal Mails UK 2019 research found 52% of 25-34 year olds were signed up to a service. With younger generations embracing this model the long term prospects are bright. Businesses are also addressing barriers to subscriptions by making it easier to tailor your plans cost and cancellation options.

Even without the benefits of convenience and time, there is something pretty lovely about something arriving through your letterbox every month that isn’t just a bill.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Skin Wellbeing

WITH THE PANDEMIC ENSURING PHYSICAL AND MENTAL HEALTH WILL CONTINUE TO BE MAIN PRIORITIES FOR CONSUMER IN 2021, WE ARE SEEING THE CONSUMER DEMAND MORE FROM THEIR BEAUTY PRODUCTS; NOT ONLY MUST THEY MAKE YOU LOOK GOOD, THEY NEED TO MAKE YOU FEEL GOOD TOO- IT’S ABOUT THE TOTAL 360 EXPERIENCE. THE FIRST EVER LARGE SCALE STUDY EXAMINING THE LINK BETWEEN STRESS AND BEAUTY, FOUND THAT 75% OF WOMEN SAY STRESS AFFECTS THEIR SENSE OF FEELING BEAUTIFUL.

THIS MEANS THE LINK BETWEEN WELLNESS AND BEAUTY IS GROWING, WITH CONSUMERS SEARCHING FOR TRENDS WHICH SHOW A HOLISTIC APPROACH TOWARDS SKINCARE.

THE MARKET TREND DRIVERS

• As a result of the skincare market pivoting towards healthcare, the Skin Microbiome market will grow to $2.97bn by 2030.

• Messages that encourage confidence and naturalness will have greater appeal, particularly as body positivity continues to gain traction. For example, several brands and retailers have embraced skin imperfections and challenged the notion that healthy skin needs to be flawless in 2021, including Cult Beauty with its #UpCloseOnSkincare campaign.

• 13 to 26 years old see skincare as the Holy Grail of beauty routines. It’s now about nurturing and caring for skin, as the notion of health takes a growing place in the world of cosmetics.

The 4 consumer trends we are seeing are:

• Sensitive skin & scarring

  In the UK 32% of women claim to have sensitive skin, and 70% of people have skin conditions or scars that directly affect their confidence.

  We know that stress can trigger flare-ups of eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis, hives, cold sores, fever blisters, and other skin rashes. With the ongoing impact of the pandemic on mental health (in December 2020 a US census found 42% of US adults were experiencing stress or depression) this explains why we’ve seen a surge in brand launches starring quintessential calming ingredients.

• Natural Skin health

  The demand for skincare to provide more than just aesthetic benefits is accelerating. 65% of beauty consumers link the beauty and wellness categories together.

  Skincare for health is emerging in tandem with global consumer interest in overall health as well as the need to communicate and educate skincare's health benefits for future success.

• Seasonal Skin

  Hot weather, cold and dry climates as well as changing seasons means consumers are looking for products which meet seasonal demands. Air con and central heating can impact skin, such as dehydrating and causing breakouts.

  39% of UK female facial skincare product users agree cold weather impacts the appearance of their skin.

• Skin Protection

  COVID-19 has renewed consumers focus on what's polluting skin. Stylight noted a 136% increase in Google searches for “blue light skincare” since the beginning of 2019, peaking at a 336% increase in May 2020. There is also an increased brand focus on protection and barrier repair ingredient call outs.

Hot Beauty trends for Beauty NPD

• Focus

  The pandemic has opened up new skin considerations whether its increased cleanliness, masks, or using skincare to de-stress. As a result, brands need to focus on skin wellness, not just aesthetics.

  Consumers are also looking for skincare that will help protect skin coming out of the pandemic, such as skin barrier and linking into overall wellness.

• Education

  As consumers are increasingly aware of external factors on skin, adaptive beauty products that can be customised to the user's changing skin needs willgain traction and brands should help educate on factors that can influence skin changes

  The conversation around the impact of hormonal changes is also opening up, presenting opportunities for targeted innovations.

• Packaging

  Packaging which tailors to 'freshness' or 'sealed' similar to probiotics. Consumers are even using 'beauty fridges' to keep skincare fresh, so this is something that would lend well to this trend.

• Ingredients

  "Natural" and  “clean” ingredient labelling has experienced  backlash as consumers education themselves on issues like ingredient safety and depletion of natural resources. Brands have the opportunity to instead focus on validating how ingredients promote skin health, sourced using transparent and sustainable  practices.

  Use of wellness focused ingredients continues to grow e.g. microbiome and 'fermented' ingredients- linking into the live ingredient trend.

Within our latest trends report, we explore the consumer insights shaping this trend and we can reach out to consumers through exciting and innovation NPD.

There is so much to uncover about this trend so please get in touch to discover more and find out how we can bring ideas to a commercial reality

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Responsibility

 Brand responsibility may seem to be a topic well covered, but when 80% of millennials and Gen Zer’s globally believe that governments and businesses need to make greater efforts to protect the environment (Stylus), it shows just how far the beauty industry still has to go in its efforts to tackle its contribution to the climate crisis. And QUICK. Beauty brands are rapidly losing consumer’s trust. Only 51% of young people worldwide see business as a force for good, dramatically down from 76% in 2017.

And it’s with good reasons young consumers feel the way they do, as the beauty industry has some staggering statistics…

THE STATS

• 120 billion units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, most of which isn’t recycled

• Perfumes, hairsprays and deodorants pollute the environment as much as car emissions

• Ingredients like Palm oil, which is used in approximately half of all consumer goods, contribute to an estimated loss of 18 million acres of forest annually

• Water shortages are predicted to impact two-thirds of the world’s population by 2025, with water making up 70-80% of most beauty formulas

As Beauty Brand Coaches, these statistics remind us of the significant role we need to play in helping to encourage change in the industry.

Within our 2021 trends report we explore the consumer, environmental and market insights influencing this crisis, and how beauty brand Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) strategies can make positive changes to re-connect with customers. Given the scale of this issue, which is ever evolving, our blog is just a snapshot of the 5 key responsibility themes that were front of mind in the first half of 2021. However, if you would light to discuss in more detail please get in touch for further insight analysis.  

The 5 themes we explored are:

1. GREATER TRANSPARENCY

2. PACKAGING

3. NATURAL PERCEPTION

4. USAGE & BEHAVIOURS

5. TOTAL PRODUCTION PROCESS

1. GREATER TRANSPARENCY

Beauty Buzzwords

There is a need for higher levels of transparency from brands as consumers want more meaningful information to help with product purchases and avoid misinformation. Most apparent is the shift in terminology to avoid beauty buzzwords and phrases which can mislead consumers. Sustainability & other environmental phrases are done. Allure announced its prohibited use of 'recyclable', 'earth-friendly’ and 'eco friendly' and Mintel are curbing sustainable phrases, suggesting that the term is overused and impactless. After a review by the EU commission into marketing greenwashing language (making claims about positive environmental impacts which were misleading), 42% of environmental claims were found to be false or exaggerated, and 59% were unsupported by evidence. Legislation will be put in place in 2021 to require brands to substantiate environmental footprint claims as a result, and the UK is likely to follow with it’s own future legislation. And we take note, suitably naming our trend ‘Responsibility.’ 

Contrasting to this, ‘clean’ & ‘natural’ are just some of the unregulated claims that are growing in both popularity, and there is the assumption that these are better for the environment despite real understanding or clarity around the claims.  

Taking ‘clean’ for instance - 58% of women globally feel that clean beauty means a product is natural. However “What does clean skincare mean?" was one of the most Googled searches of 2020! This shows how much consumer confusion there is around widely used claims and terminologies. There remains a huge opportunity to introduce clarity, common understanding and credibly proven CSR policies across the whole of the beauty industry.

Environmental reporting

Brands are also being challenged to increase their environmental reporting as consumers seek more transparency on environmental measures relating to the total product cycle. Noticeably, Carbon Footprint & Handprint, Supply chain traceability and Water Footprint seem to be the main measures brands are reporting.

It’s important to recognise your 'Responsible USP('s)' i.e. what you are doing to be more environmentally friendly, and use specific measures to inform customers of this positive benefit. Packaging can be a great way to engage with consumers. Using a water alternative or carbon neutral? Tell customers about this great work, and educate about both the pros and cons to continue to support informed consumer choice.

2. PACKAGING

Packaging alternatives

Packaging is the most tangible aspect of the product with which consumers interact, so it's understandable that plastic has been the leading focus for most brands to reduce. By 2025, 100% of the plastics used in L'Oréal's products' packaging will be either from recycled or bio-based sources. In order to hit such targets, brands need to explore packing innovations that reduce our reliance on plastic. 

Carbon positive Cork, compostable Mycelium and zero waste Soap are some of the most interesting breakthrough materials being explored in the market currently. Whilst some are more industrialised than others, we think that there is no one perfect solution when it comes to making packaging more responsible. Instead, brands need to take a flexible approach across a range of solutions, and the most important thing is to use resources responsibly, which relies on the industry working sensibly together across packaging innovations.

 Closing the cycle

 Wider than the packaging material itself, brands need to look at further closing the cycle.

Offsetting is an easy way for brands to contribute and whilst it doesn't fix the root cause, it is still a way to make a difference. Similarly, using schemes that help to recycle and clean up plastic waste are relatively simple ways in which brands can better contribute to the environment. Stores can also play a part in the full consumer journey by implementing refill sections and recycling points in store to inspire repeat visits - the John Lewis BeautyCycle scheme is just one example of this.

3. NATURAL PERCEPTION

Science meets Nature

Evolving on from the Clean Beauty movement, 'Cleanical' is the growing clean science trend, which combines 'clean' and 'clinical' - lab-grown 'natural' ingredients for powerful and proven results. Whilst the clean element of this trend is still not well defined, we think that the natural-science combo is very interesting. This is because innovative and sustainable formulations can be made when combining scientific knowledge with natural ingredients. New extraction techniques, stabilising methods and delivery systems can boost the power of natural ingredients, or even replicate them in labs. By utilising natural beauty with science, it will help to reduce the impact on our planet.

However, when 70% of US consumers aged 18–29 would rather use natural, organic cosmetics (Statista), it shows that there is still the belief that natural is best. Even though experts are clear that this isn't the case, brands must take the opportunity to educate on the safety and the benefits of non-natural ingredients.

How else can brands reinvent Natural?

Wild harvesting is a trend on the rise, which considers the seasonality of the plant, unlike normal AYR harvesting. Circumference NYC aims to preserve the biodiversity of plants by avoiding intense agricultural practices and the use of chemicals.

Another fascinating concept is made-to-order beauty, which sees brands growing and manufacturing only what they need based on orders received. Whilst this may result in limited sales, it's certainly a premium offer that takes away the headache of forecasting and can give customers a sense of exclusivity.

Brands should think about how NPD plans could support the natural harvest cycle. There could be opportunities for more localised launches that showcase homegrown ingredients for smaller collections, such as limited editions and bespoke gifts.

4. BEHAVIOURS AND USAGE

Regime rationing

Interestingly, we’re starting to see the backlash of excessive product layering, as consumers start to really understand the benefits of cutting back regimes, not only on environmental consumption & waste, but to also improve their skin and hair. Simplified regimes (highlighted by Pinterests call-out in 2021 for skinimalism) which focus on the essentials can instead rely on the skins natural ability to rejuvenate, resulting in a healthy skin barrier and glowing complexion.

As well as slimming down on regimes, we’re also seeing ingredient lists shrink, as brands realise that cutting out excess and focusing only the key essentials can give amazing results.

How else are consumers regimes being rethought?

Consumers are more willing than ever to adapt their lifestyles to be more environmentally friendly, so it is a great time for brands to challenge the regime norms to make beauty habits more responsible. Reusable formats, at-home activation, waterless technologies are all popular ways in which consumers are adapting lifestyles to be become more responsible.

5. TOTAL PRODUCTION PROCESS

Sourcing and raw materials

Taking a local approach to sourcing allows brands to have an authentic story and helps to reduce environmental impact when production is localised. However, it's not only about harvesting local ingredients but also what brands give back to the environment and community. Haeckels encourages coastline clear-ups, rewarding volunteers with free products. A great example of the respect and consideration they have for their local area & community.

By-product beauty

Whilst a USP for brands such as Upcircle (who are leading the way in creating a positive impact from waste materials), the by-product trend will become something every brand should utilise as more attention is given to close product cycle loops. This can be with manufacturers, as they look to other industries to create circular economies, but also at home with post-consumer use. Brands need to think about how product waste can be used to better impact the environment. 

SUMMARY

We have reviewed just 5 of the dynamics influencing the responsibility movement, but this is wide-reaching and ever-evolving industry issue. Our key learning is to keep moving forward, as taking no action while we wait for “perfect” solutions is no longer an option. Brands have a responsibility to continually educate themselves on the latest positive technologies in the market, and build consumer education to allow them to make informed choices. For more information and ideas on brand and product responsibility please get in touch to chat!

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Self Expression and Beauty at the Olympics

Self-expression isn’t a common topic of conversation when it comes to the Olympic Games and athletes in general. However for some it is a symbol of confidence and a representation of their personality.

It can been seen in a number of formats, whether it is a hair colour, nail art, accessories, or lipstick; many female athletes are starting to incorporate this into their sports.

Why do female athletes wear makeup?

Throughout the history of the Olympic Games there has only been a handful of athletes that push the boundaries and create their own style in their field. Most famously, track star Flo Jo dazzled the world with her six-inch acrylic nails and one-legged leotards back in the 1980’s, where she smashed world records in her mark for 100m sprints. In the 1988 games Flo Jo became the first Black woman to win four medals at a single game. For this record-breaking day, she had a special set of nails on, including bedazzled red, white and blue nails, representing Team USA and two gold nails, symbolising her hope of bringing home the gold (White, 2021).

Flo Jo’s influence has rippled through the Olympics ever since, with more and more athletes using cosmetics and colour to express their personalities. The rising star Sha’Carri Richardson has recently grown attention for her long acrylic nails, eyelash extensions and fiery orange hair not to mention her record breaking sprinting skills. Richardson said her standout hair colour symbolises "running on fire" and was chosen by her girlfriend. Other track athletes are bringing their style to the starting line including high jumper Vashti Cunningham, who adopted the black cat-eye eyeliner as she secured her place on team USA. Another high jumper, Rachel McCoy, rocked her matching pink hair with her uniform during her fourth-place performance (Flanagan, 2021)

There has been controversy surrounding female athletes and makeup in the Olympic games, with spectators claiming it is a distraction for others and that they are not taking their sport seriously. This is far from the truth for the majority. According to former Olympian Queen Harrison, lipstick is source of strength, creativity, and expression. For Harrison, she embraced the ‘you look good, you feel good, you perform good’ attitude. Her goal is not to see how much makeup she needs to wear in order to be noticed; it’s really about what makes her feel beautiful and fierce when looking in the mirror. In her words “You won’t ever catch me at a meet without makeup. It’s part of my uniform now, and it’s a performance. You’d never see Beyoncé at a performance with no makeup on.” (Harrison, 2018). Similarly, Christina Clemons smashed her 100-Meter Hurdle Trials race with shining clips tucked into her hair and fun Cool Ranch Doritos earrings dangling from her ears. In the past she has also worn butterfly clips, fuzzy scrunchies, dark lipstick, and embellished barrettes while sailing over the finish line.

No matter the personal reason, there’s one common theme each woman shares when it comes to putting on their face and accessorising for the Olympics: self-expression.

Although self-expression is growing within the Olympics, there are also some individuals who are being penalised due to hair types and showing political support. Committee’s behind these sports have impacted athletes performance and personal space with their laws and regulations. Back in 2013, a couple of Swedish athletes wore rainbow-painted nails to support pride and gay rights at the IAAF World Athletics Championship. The Huffington Post noted that, "While the International Olympic Committee's rules do not explicitly bar rainbow colours— a well-known symbol of gay pride— its charter does specify that no political propaganda is 'permitted in any Olympic sites, venues or other areas.'" Of course, this rule also extends to every other Olympic event. (Hayes, 2016). This caused large amounts of protest and upset with the public and shows how the Olympics is still strict on groups of individuals or celebrations.

As well as pride being penalised, the Black community have been set back recently in Aquatics. Alice Dearing, the first black female swimmer to represent Britain in the Olympics, wanted to use the ‘Soul Cap’ swimming cap for her races. The product, ‘Soul Cap’, is meant to accommodate thicker, curlier hair textures to provide a better fit and protect hair from chlorine. However, members of the International Swimming Federation, known as FINA banned the use of this product as it does not follow “the natural form of the head.” The cap is designed with extra room at the crown to fit more voluminous natural hairstyles like braids, locks, and Afros. The average swimming cap is too small and for many black athletes they find themselves pulling it down constantly and they pull on the edges of their hair. This is an unfamiliar disadvantage for many athletes as they are unaware of the struggles this community face day-to-day, even beyond the world of elite athletics, legislation surrounding what is and is not acceptable for Black hair has been policed and their struggles not recognised. (Brown, 2021)

“For competitions, I’m always excited and full of confidence, so I like to show up with bold looks. I believe it’s important to show our femininity while being athletic because it is a strength, not a weakness.”

— Clemons (Messina, 2021)

Female athletes have also been impacted by committees laws with Norway’s female handball team being fined as a punishment for wearing shorts instead of bikini bottoms. Traditionally, the women's team must wear bikini bottoms to certain measurements, the criteria being they must be 'a close fit'. The rules regarding the bikini bottoms are extremely strict with each one having to be 'cut on an upward angle toward the top of the leg' and a side depth of no more than 10 centimetres. Meanwhile male players get to wear shorts. This shows how much the committees are impacting the Olympic games which are meant to be a celebration of countries and talent but is being discriminatory to groups of individuals.

Influencer, AK Brown said that "In a lot of these spaces, even in athletics, we are expected to tone down our creativity and more, it's almost like code switching for us when we go into our 9-to-5, we either dress down or we don't use the colloquial terms that we would use around fellow Black people. We're not able to express ourselves through our creative culture." (Garcia, 2021). There is still a feeling of inequality and an inability to express yourself in the black community when amongst other ethnic groups. The level of excellence in the Olympic games should not be defined by your ethnic group or hair type. All these athletes have come together to represent their country, and all have one thing in common: talent. So why are some being punished?

This year's Olympic Trials have ignited many emotions, but one thing's for certain: the colour of your skin, hair, and nails doesn't stop you from being excellent - far from it!

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

HAIR TRENDS 2021

In 2020, our social feeds were awash with pictures of DIY home haircuts and dye jobs (sometimes with mixed success), with many of us truly appreciating how much we relied on professionals to feel like ourselves.

Quite rightly, The British Beauty Council have launched their #ohhellobeauty campaign to get us all back into the salons, but as we approach the halfway point of 2021, we wanted to take a look at the standout trends that have been defining haircare at home this year and what’s on the horizon for autumn/winter 21.

KEEP IT CASUAL

An Ipsos Mori survey in April 2021 found that 3 out of 5 of us in the UK were happier with a more casual approach to their appearance, with a third less likely to style their hair as a result of the changes we made to our lifestyles during the pandemic. It seems like we are not ready to let go of our messy buns just yet, especially as many are expecting the hybrid home / office working model to continue for the foreseeable future. So what does that mean for the haircare industry?

Low maintenance hairstyles dominate, with shaggy bobs, curtain bangs and ready-to-go mullets key examples of this effortless look trend. Likewise, in terms of colour some of us got used to our roots in 2020 and have moved to a softer balayage in 2021, or have embraced their natural grey (see @salihughes for inspiration on this). In terms of products, quick-fix dry shampoo will continue to be a well loved format for consumers looking for time saving hair routines with Revolution Beauty recently entering this category. Innovation will expand in this category - see the Carter+Jane Scalpfix, marketed as a healthy alternative to dry shampoo to absorb oil while soothing problem scalps with Rosemary and Peppermint Oil, and Frank Body with their Dry Clean Shampoo with Rice Bran and Tapioca Starch.

SKINFLUENCE

Skintellectual consumers continued to to build the knowledge of skincare ingredients in 2020 as many of us switched to online research and shopping. Although the trend for adding traditional skincare ingredients into hair was already present in the haircare industry, that trend has now accelerated with haircare-skincare hybrids focusing on scalp health alongside protecting and strengthening hair. From Hyaluronic Acid, AHAs, Centella Asiatica through to Micellar Water, the hair industry is now fully on board with the inclusion of skin loving ingredients.

Dove are introducing a Scalp Tonic with Niacinamide and Aloe, formulated to soothe stressed out scalps, while the Galinee Scalp and Hair Serum is based on a microbiome friendly pre and postbiotic formula with fermented rice water, aligned to one of the key skincare trends in 2021.

This trend will continue to strengthen in 2021, with skin-loving ingredient stories becoming a hygiene factor in any credible haircare launches going forward.

NATURALLY YOU

The natural hair trend has gone from strength to strength, supported with increased education and content on platforms such as Tik Tok over the last 12 months. Unique texture, coils and curls were celebrated with the Curly Girl trend in 2020, and curl defining innovation continues into 2021 through trends such as hair plopping (a drying technique for frizz free curls) and no-poo shampoo regimes. Aligned to this heritage, indie and mainstream brands are all bringing curl care products to market in 2021. Kérastase are launching their Curl Manifesto range, with a full range of treatments and cleansers, while Pattern founded by Tracee Ellis Moss, launched a range a treatments based on traditional care remedies earlier this year.

Protective styles for natural hair will also be a key feature, linking to time-saving, low maintenance and hair health boosting consumer needs. - braids, bantu knots, butterfly locs and twist outs are fully celebrated this year, alongside products to help maintain scalp health and refreshing sprays.

WELLNESS

Wellness was the key beauty buzzword in 2020, as many of us turned to at home selfcare treatments to provide some much needed TLC and downtime. Mintel forecasted in their Beauty and Personal Care Trends Report for 2021 that “The concept of total wellness has become integral to beauty routines” and that routines that help to relieve stress and anxiety would remain a key consumer need across the total industry. This will fuel the continued focus to scalp health, with Cosmeticsdesign-Asia noting that stress-related hair loss or poor scalp health will increase consumer demand for scalp and hair repair innovation.

As well as wellness-inspired ingredient and product innovation, this trend in the hair category also incorporates taking some extra time on your hair routine to treat and repair, with a dual benefit of providing you with time to relax + revitalising hair health. An example in 2021 is the launch of the Olaplex No.8 Moisture Mask which is sure to be a hit for followers of this cult hair brand, especially as their No3 Hair Perfector Treatment was one of the top selling beauty products of 2020 in UK beauty retailers.

LOOK AHEAD AUTUMN WINTER 2021

As we turn towards the second half of 2021, what other trends will emerge as we continue to explore our new post-pandemic lifestyles? We predict that big, bold OTT styles will make an appearance if we are able to fully return to nightlife, especially alongside an expected cosmetics trend of standout colour and glitter, as a celebration of the joy of being able to go “out out” once again.

Other ones to watch include continued trial of shampoo bars as the waterless trend continues to influence the hair industry (see L’Occtaine for a recent launch in this area with 99% biodegradable ingredients), alongside continued innovation in the dry shampoo market in line with low maintenance styles. Mintel calls out the latest NPD launches in these areas in their May 21 Innovation highlights. Finally, the soft curtain bands of 2020 will be replaced by bold, edgy fringes with attitude, as showcased at the Milan winter runway shows with an explosion of uber short fringes.

As ever, if you are interested in creating your own haircare range, or growing your existing range, then get in touch for a chat to find out how we can help.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Sun, Tan & DHA

Following on from #sunawarenssweek we know that a healthy glow is still high on the agenda for many. Avoid the sun and wear SPF - without question, but is there another way without the risk?

With the Self-tan market is projected to grow US$259 Million from 2019-2027, driven by a CAGR of 4.1% Global interest in sunless tanning is growing and with the regulation of DHA recently in the news, Here we take a look at the ingredient & the evolution of the Self-tan market.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a Self-tanning ingredient, used in the majority of self-tans you can find on the market, and it is estimated that the annual DHA production has more than doubled from the 2000 tons produced in 2009/2010 to its volume in 2018.

WHAT IS DHA?

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a Glycerin derivative, obtained through microbial fermentation. When DHA is applied to the skin, it reacts and binds with the amino acids found in the dead skin cells in the outermost layer of the skin. This reaction produces melanoids (brown pigments), giving the illusion of a tan that gradually fades over time.

DHA IN THE NEWS

Previously, DHA was not regulated under the Cosmetic Regulations. However, in March 2021, The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) published its final opinion of the safety of the ingredient, stating it should be used at a maximum of 10% in self-tanning products. 

The regulation is expected to be published in Q2/Q3 2021 with the following transition periods from entry into force:

• + 6 months non-compliant products shall not be placed on the Union market

• + 9 months non-compliant products shall not be made available on the Union market

This new regulation will only be applicable in the EU and Northern Ireland.  Since leaving the EU, The UK will not automatically implement EU SCCS opinions and legislative amendments into the UK Cosmetics Regulation without independent UK scrutiny - MSL

HISTORY OF SUNLESS TANNING

So where did it all begin?

Tanning is thought to have been made popular by style makers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s, when she was photographed supporting a suntan in the French Riviera. However up until then, bronzed skin wasn’t the desired look (a move on from the Victorian society status; you didn’t work outside and therefor your skin was paler).

From the 1920’s onwards, a tan signified that you had spare money and time to sunbathe and the tanning trend was reinforced by the introduction of more revealing swimwear and the rebellious Flapper era. Tanning was a way for women to free themselves from the prior conservative Victorian mindset, just like the uptake of drinking, smoking and dancing.

Although, having bronzed skin wasn’t initially widely adopted by westerners in the early tanning crazes. As a result, skin bleaching became a popular choice to rid of post-holiday tan lines. Elizabeth Arden even offered a “Après L'Été” salon treatment to do just that!

It was in the late 19020’s, when Vogue declared that the ‘Sunburn Movement’ had created a whole new beauty category centred around showing off cinnamon hued tans, the first tanning products started entering the market:

• 1298 : Jean Patou introduced ‘Huile de Chaldée’, the first tanning oil.

• 1929 : The ‘Glory Of Sun’ aimed to give women a perfect ‘out of the box” tan, which was essentially all-over skin makeup.

• 1935 : The Ambre Solaire UV-filtering tanning oil was introduced by L'Oréal.

• 1940s : Coppertone sunblock was invented  (although became hugely popular in 1956 with their ad campaign).

• 1950’s : DHA was discovered by accident when Eva Wittgenstein noticed  that a medicine she had been testing stained patient’s skin, but not clothes.

• 1978 : The first modern indoor tanning bed was introduced in the U.S

• 1998: Mystic Tan was the first mainstream version of spray tan to enter the market

Even though the harmful effects of UV rays were known early on, it didn’t stop people from slathering up in oil and heading onto sunbeds and sun lounges to achieve the deepest of tans possible. However, with the extent of our knowledge today of just dangerous UV rays are, it’s no wonder sunless tanning has gained in popularity over the years.

WHY HAS SUNLESS TANNING BECOME SO POPULAR?

55 years after Wittgenstein’s DHA discovery, St Tropez sold out a year's worth of stock of its in‐shower tanning lotion in only one day, clearly showing just how much Self-tan innovations have evolved over the years, and the high consumer demand for newness in the tanning market.

Today, there is really no excuse for a bad tan, thanks to the advancements in formulations containing DHA, but what has changed?

The unnatural tones and uneven colouring that have made many people fall victim to the Oompa Loompa look, is thought to be down to the quality of ingredients and formulation, which has drastically improved over the years. This is first achieved by increasing formulation stability by using ingredients with pH levels compatible to DHA. Also, purer forms of DHA have been made available - powdered DHA is more stable than DHA in an aqueous solution, which can lose up to 25% of its active ingredient when stored at 40 °C for 6 months, versus powdered DHA who’s degradation is negligible.

That ‘burn biscuit’smell which is all too familiar to OG tanners, is down to the reaction between DHA and amino acids. Now, complimentary ingredients can be added to mask the smell. ‘Clean Tan’ uses cardamom seed oil and five aromatic teas as its aroma.

Some studies claim that DHA can promote premature skin aging due the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres when the DHA reacts with amino acids. However, now sunless tanners can be formulated with powerful ingredients to reduce free radicals. This gives a longer lasting, enhanced tan and even tone, without the negative effects of skin aging.

Improved formulations, breakthrough innovation’s and our our ever increasing awareness of UV photodamage will certainly continue to support the growth of sunless tanning!

As covered in our blog on Why is SPF so Important, last year 35% of people in the UK were burnt at least once. So, is this caused by a lack of awareness to the sun’s effects or an overwhelming desire to catch a bit of sun to give that glow so many crave? It feels like DHA is a key ingredient that gives us the right solution, but important to remember that SPF is always needed no matter what. Baz Lurhmann, was of course, absolutely right about that (and it would appear so much more)!

Interested in developing Self-Tan? We could honestly talk about this one for hours - get in touch and we can take you through our thoughts on tan new launch opportunities.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Why is SPF so important?

Everyone is impacted by damage to the skin from the sun. In fact last in 2021 35% of people in the UK were burnt at least once, with 28% of those being burnt more than three times during the year.

The 3rd to 9th May 2021 is Sun Awareness week - the British Association of Dermatologists’ annual campaign to raise awareness of skin cancer.

The Sun Awareness Week campaign is a combination of prevention and detection advice. The first aim is to encourage people to regularly self-examine for skin cancer. The second, is to teach us about the dangers of sunburn and excessive tanning, as well as to discourage people from using sun-beds in light of the associated risks of skin cancer.

In addition to public education about the dangers of sunbed use, they are also involved in campaigning for legislation to regulate the sunbed industry and is continuing to push towards further and improved regulations. Its such an important subject, and one we wanted to share information on and support with awareness (in our own small way).

WHAT IS AN SPF?

SPF stands for ‘Sun protection factor’ and is a measure of how much protection a sunscreen will offer against UV rays.

The SPF number tells you how long the sun’s UVB rays would take to redden your skin if you apply the sunscreen exactly as directed compared with the amount of time without sunscreen. So, if you use an SPF 30 product properly, it would take you 30 times longer to burn than if you used no sunscreen.

UVB, UVA AND UVC RAYS

• The sun exposes you to ultraviolet radiation, UV rays. UV rays are invisible and are classified by wavelength. The main types of UV rays are UVA, UVB, and UVC.

• UVA rays have the longest wavelength, followed by UVB and UVC.

• The shorter UV rays are absorbed by the ozone layer, so most of it is in the form of UVA and some UVB.

• UVB rays only penetrate the outer layers of your skin, but UVA rays penetrate deeper layers, because of their longer wavelength.

• UVB rays cause superficial inflammation and damage (like sunburn), and UVA rays can cause deeper damage with increased risks of cellular damage.

• Up to 80% of UV rays pass through clouds, making it just as important to apply SPF no matter the weather.

TYPES OF SUNSCREEN

The active ingredients in sunscreens work by creating UV filters that keep harmful UV rays from penetrating the skin. There are two types of sunscreens – mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens. Each type uses a combination of different ingredients for filtering out UV rays and protecting the skin from sun damage.

MINERAL SUNSCREENS

Mineral sunscreens sit on top of the skin’s surface, acting as a physical blocker by deflecting and scattering UV rays away from the skin. Mineral sunscreens block UV rays at a surface level, protecting against both UVA and UVB rays. Also, because mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier, they are effective as soon as they are applied.

Mineral sunscreens tend to have a white-ish cast to them, and can be visible on the skin. Also, because they sit on the skin’s surface, mineral sunscreens can be rubbed off easily, which makes frequent re-application a must.

They also must be applied liberally to ensure protection. Mineral sunscreens typically contain the active ingredients titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide or a combination of the two.

CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS

Chemical sunscreens are absorbed into skin and tend to sit in the deeper layers. They absorb UV rays, change them into heat, and then release the heat from the skin.

Since UV rays must penetrate the skin to reach these chemicals, chemical sunscreens may not protect against all UVA rays, which still causes damage to the deeper layers of the skin.

Chemical sunscreens can take about 20 minutes to become fully effective. Direct light causes the chemicals to be used up more quickly, meaning re-application must be much more frequent when you are in direct sunlight. The heat-releasing nature of chemical sunscreens can sometimes cause problems for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin, as well as those with hyperpigmentation.

The heated skin can cause an increase in existing brown spots. Chemical sunscreens can also clog pores and be problematic for acne-prone skin. Chemical sunscreens contain oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, octisalate, homosalate, or combinations.

SKINCARE ROUTINES WITH SPF

Your SPF should be applied after your moisturiser, and before any foundation. Make sure you are using a decent amount so it’s effective.

You should choose an SPF that works for your skin depending on your individual needs and lifestyle, and then incorporating it into your every day routine should be simple and easy.

TOP 3 REASONS FOR APPLYING SPF

1. Protects your skin from UV rays. The depletion of the ozone layer has increased the risk of sun damage from harmful UV rays. Using an SPF blocks these rays, reducing the chance of sunburn and even lowers your chances of skin cancer.

2. It prevents premature ageing of skin; sun damage over time causes the breakdown of collagen which in turn contributes to lines, wrinkles and sagging- Did you know the sun is responsible for up to 90% of ageing skin?

3. It helps maintain an even skin tone; Using an SPF daily helps prevent discolouration and dark spots from sun damage, helping you maintain a smooth and even skin tone.

SUPERGOOP!

Somewhat the ‘holy grail’ when it comes to ‘unseen sunscreen’. Supergoop! has revolutionised the mineral SPF by creating a product that is truly weightless, scentless and completely transparent.

It is also infused with skincare ingredients which help hydrate skin and even double up as a primer for makeup.

Not going to lie, we love Supergoop! Its a brand that works hard and is uncompromising in its product offering. 💕

HELLO SUNDAY

“The one that’s a serum”. This is a serum which has an SPF 45.

The super-lightweight, invisible formula is not only completely transparent but also doesn’t require any extra steps adding into your skincare regime.

Vegan, cruelty free and all the formulas are free from substances known to harm sea-life- protecting your skin and the planet.

EDUCATION AND INFLUENCERS

Recently, Gwyneth Paltrow shared her techniques of applying sunscreen as a ’highlighter’, causing dermatologists to speak up on why that’s not only incorrect, but dangerous given the risks around sun damage.

It goes without saying that Gwyneth Paltrow and her Goop empire are influential in the beauty and wellness world- having a reach of 7.5 million Instagram followers—which is why so many people are disappointed by her advice. Experts have taken to social channels to help educate and inform that 80-90% of all skin cancers are on the face and neck- meaning SPF is even more important and should be applied correctly to minimise damage and chances of developing skin cancer.

Thankfully, the amazing duo at @chemist.confessions are more on the ball and have again, been sharing their take on suncare products that are raising the bar, and asking followers which sunscreen works best for them so they can review and share the product love 💕.

The message is really clear and not really up for debate - experts agree that sunscreen should be applied (and re-applied) daily.

Let us know your thoughts on SPF - we would love to introduce you to some SPF product launch opportunities.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Earth day 2021

AS THE WORLD slowly RETURNS TO NORMAL, WE CAN’T GO BACK TO BUSINESS-AS-USUAL. So how can we make sure we’re doing what we can where we can?

Earth day is a global shout out to ensure we’re focussed and keep us on the right track!

On the 22nd of April, every year, more than a billion people pause and celebrate world earth day, as well as contemplate the bigger question - how do we protect the planet?

It’s a moment of reflection we can all take to think about the impact we personally have on the planet. It also brings to light the bigger impacts the affect us all, such as pollution and deforestation.

Big or small, every decision we make has an impact on our wonderful planet, and this day gives us all a chance to think about new ways we can make our own small footprint count towards a bigger change.

2020 - now there’s a year for the history books. Whilst we can all agree it brought so many challenges and hardships, one positive to take away is how our ‘human pause’ allowed the Earth to catch it’s breath- just for a moment.

Skies cleared, and mountains were seen on the horizon for the first time in 30 years in India.

Sustainable beauty

Sustainability in the products we use is no longer a ‘trend’ or a ‘nice to have’- it’s something we demand as consumers and seek to better in the product development industry.

We are seeing a rise in demand for new, industry leading, biodegradable and planet friendly materials - and even the ‘freckles or imperfections’ we see in these products are no longer seen as a bad thing - instead are embraced and even called out as part of the brands we see! And a positive spin is that if looks like investors are finally getting on board and support brands that have a sustainable agenda.

Sustainable beauty isn't just about the ingredients listed on the box, or how the packaging is made, it's also about looking at the amount of 'new' products shoppers need to buy and how brands can help us shop savvier. Every brand has a different ethos and a different set of rules they abide by but refillable beauty is the future - it's popping up so much more now and soon it'll just be the norm.

One way to support the consumer quest for sustainability is by using refillable packs. Initially, a more expensive unit price BUT refills should then be more cost effective and add to the positive brand experience.

Fenty Skin eliminates excess outer packaging whenever possible, and while some products still require protective paper boxes, these are always recyclable.

It’s less packaging and less expensive, but a more luxurious experience - ticks all the boxes.

Natural deodorant is certainly having it’s moment in the spotlight (and is something we’ve been fans of for a long time). What could be better than a natural, aluminium free deodorant in fully personalised packaging- and not to mention its biodegradable and designed to last a life-time?

We love a product that not only smells and looks great but also does better all-round.

Balancing the green

However, like all things - balance is key! With the demand in new, biodegradable resources we are actually seeing a global shortage in sugar cane materials (the new go to alternative plastic rather than oil based). with the increase in popularity of a new materials, needing regulation. Brazilian sugar cane harvested from uncertified producers could be adding to the deforestation of the Amazon (coupled with the water needed to grow it, its a resource that needs to be carefully managed). We all need to be responsible in our sourcing protocols, whilst being relentless with research and continue to experiment with new methods and materials. This is not easy, but doesn’t mean we can ignore it - and no one is getting it right first time…

With the ever mounting pressure to be more and more sustainable its so important to be transparent. Consumers are clued up and even more aware of what they are buying, and won’t be afraid to speak up if something isn’t right.

This was seen in the recent ‘Innisfree Green washing’ issue where consumers were disappointed to discover the ‘paper bottle’ was actually covering a plastic one.

Following the backlash, the brand has acknowledged that the label “Hello, I’m Paper Bottle” may be misleading.
“We used the term ‘paper bottle’ to explain the role of the paper label surrounding the bottle,” Innisfree stated.
“We overlooked the possibility that the naming could mislead people to think the whole packaging is made of paper. We apologize for failing to deliver information in a precise way,” the brand said.

So, did the brand mislead consumers? Many aren’t satisfied with the brand’s explanations and have expressed that they feel betrayed by false marketing. With the ever mounting pressure to be more sustainable, and sometimes quicker than actually possible - brands need to be clear and manage consumers expectations - honesty truly is the best policy!

It’s important to recognise we are the change - just by swapping out some of our essentials for more sustainable options brings us all closer to achieving the same goal - to better look after our planet- after all it’s the only one we have!

As beautybrand & product coaches, product sustainability is key to the way we think. If your’re looking for support to help your new or existing beauty brand to become more sustainable, get in touch for a chat.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Tattoo aftercare : The category to watch

Tattooing is an expression of art and culture, and with the inked up population of America now at 30%, there is a growing consumer base for tattoo aftercare. The global aftercare market is expected to reach US$ 158.3 million by the end of 2026, growing at a CAGR of 6.1% during 2020-2026, so no wonder there is such an influx of new brands entering this market wanting to take share of this opportunity.

What is a tattoo?

Small needles pierce the skin and deposit tattoo ink into these tiny wounds within the dermis layer, leaving permanent art that will stay forever.

In response to this new wound, our body’s immune system wakes up and tries to defend you. It sends out white blood cells called Macrophage, their mission being to find and destroy the attackers (tattoo ink). However, the pigment particles are too big to be taken away, so the Macrophage, now containing the pigment, remains in the dermis forever, leaving you with a tattoo that will last a life time. 

Immediate Aftercare

Tattoos, which are essentially weeping wounds, are at risk of infection which is why aftercare is essential to minimise redness, irritation, swelling as well avoid infection. You can find a lot of aftercare advice for for the healing stages of the tattoo.  Here are some top tips to help with the initial healing stages of tattoos :

1. Keep it covered in the seal applied by the artist. Some artist advice leaving this on for as long as possible (we’re talking days!) and others say to remove it once you’re home. Once the protective layer has been removed at the advice of your artist, it then needs to be washed.

2. Keep it clean: Use a gentle unfragranced antibacterial wash to clean the tattoo, but do not soak! Bathing in jacuzzi’s & pools is a big nono!

3. Moisturise: There is often a lot of conflicting advice on what is the best moisturiser to use. ADD suggest using a water based moisturiser over petroleum based, which can cause the ink to fade. Other artists recommend using an ointment based product. So follow the advice of your tattoo artist here and apply a thin layer onto the fresh tattoo and keep reapplying. Gently!

4. Clothing: Choose loose items which wont cause friction.

5. Scabbing: Don’t be tempted to pick when scabbing starts and avoid scratching when it’s itchy. Top tip, try tapping the irritated area instead.

Longterm aftercare

The healing stages of the tattoo will last for a few weeks and whilst people are pretty hot on the immediate treatment, the long term after care can often be neglected. Yet this is incredibly important to keeping your tattoo looking fresh, bold and vivid for as long as possible.

Fading tattoos are inevitable, like ageing, it is something that cannot be avoided. However, just as we try to delay the ageing of our skin, steps can be taken to keep tattoos looking fresh for as long as possible.

Life-long tattoo care is actually not too dissimilar from following a simple skincare regime. Here are the top tips:

Use an Intense moisturiser twice a day, like cocoa butter, or even better use one with SPF. Tattoos, just like your skin, do not like UV rays! Whether artificial or from the sun, UV rays can cause tattoos to fade and dull the colour by breaking down the chemical structure of the pigment in tattoo inks. Not to mention unprotected sun exposure increase risks of skin cancer. Therefore coverup and always wear high protection SPF when in direct sunlight.

There is often a misconception that exfoliating your tattoos will remove colour, however this isn’t the case. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the upmost levels of the skin, and as tattoo ink is deposited way beneath several sub layers of skin, it’s not even close to being reached! Therefore exfoliating is great for getting rid of dull skin, and a brighter complexion will also benefit the appearance of the tattoo. Both physical and chemical exfoliants are effective on the body, however we’d opt for a gentle yet affective  glycolic cleanser.

For an extra little cheat to help make your tattoo pop, try using an oil based moisturiser increase colour intensity and add shine.

If you would like to chat to us about launching your own bodycare tattoo range then please get it touch :)

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Are skincare and haircare powders the future of beauty?

Powders have been around in the beauty industry for some time but have remained a more quirky, niche format - but is this the moment for them to move mainstream? In todays blog we explore all you need to know about this formulation type, and why you might be tempted to try one for the first time.

The Benefits

• SUSTAINABILITY - Powder formulations use less waste and energy during production, and are light to transport so use less energy when distributed through supply chains.

• PERSONALISATION - One of the main reasons to trial a skincare powder is because it allows you to tailor your regime - a powder can be easily combined and mixed with other skincare products , such as serums and moisturisers. This also avoids that feeling of applying multiple skincare layers and feeling overloaded. With personalisation continuing to be one of the beauty industry key drivers for future innovation, this format helps users easily customise and boost their regime for their own unique needs.

• POTENCY - Powders mean the formulation doesn’t have water, thickeners, oils, or silicones, so in theory you are getting a purer, concentrated shot of actives that remain stable for long periods of time. This is definitely one of the main upsides to trying skincare powders.

• COST EFFECTIVE - Because of the potency and small dosage, it can mean that you get a high number of uses out of a powder formulation. A bottle of shampoo can be made up of 80% water, so OWA Haircare promises that 1 bottle of their Moondust powder hairwash is the equivalent to 4 bottles of liquid shampoo.

The Downsides

• DOSAGE - The main downside is definitely the “how much do I use” question. Most of us are still trialling what beauty regime works for us, and the added complication of having to mix the dosage yourself or working out if the liquid you want to mix the powder into is compatible could be an issue for some.

• AVAILABILITY - Because powders are still less widespread in the beauty industry at the moment, you will have to hunt around a bit if you want to give one a try,

Beauty Powders

If you do want to introduce a powder into your regime then where do you start?

Cleansers and Exfoliators are a great option as they often combine a gentle scrub at the same time, or you could go straight to an exfoliator. Many use rice bran or oat bases, and are activated by mixing a few drops of water with the powder in the palm of your hand before massaging into skin - Clarins are one of the larger skincare brands to have introduced these, but for rave reviews try the Tactha Rice Powder (sadly difficult to get hold of in the UK). The benefits are brighter, smoother skin and users are normally converted once they try for the first time.

Masks are another option were powders are transformed into mask pastes when mixed with water. Herbivore offer Clay Masks, with the benefit of creating your own DIY skincare at home with a consistency that suits you.

Skincare Boosters are becoming more widespread. Fromas the latest offering from The Ordinary potent Vitamin C, antioxidant protection to Nicacinamide - there are a host of ingredients you can add to your serum or moisturiser when your skin needs a little extra support. Mattifying powders are also a great option if you don’t want to switch your whole skincare regime, but just boost the one you already have to deal with oily skin when you need it.

Shampoo is diversifying away from traditional liquids, and solid shampoo bars have been making inroads in this category for a little while. However, as mentioned above, powder shampoos are also an interesting option to try. Brands like Bumble & Bumble offer non-spray / powder versions of dry shampoos, or examples like the OWAHaircare or Heavenly Organics are powder hairwashes that are mixed with a small amount of water before washing hair as normal.

Powder formulations are definitely polarising, with consumers either loving the play element or feeling unsure about how to use them. Personally, we love this format as the sustainability upside and fun factor are both huge benefits.

As always, if you are thinking about launching beauty powders get in touch for a chat to find out how we can help.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

The evolution of deodorants and anti-perspirants in the beauty industry

Now, let’s be honest - as much as putting on a deodorant or anti-perspirant is a key part of many people’s regular routine, do we often think beyond ‘I’ve always used this one’ or ‘this one is on offer for £1’? For something that most people do daily it seems wrong that we would give our armpits such little consideration, especially considering how sensitive they are.

In a world where we are increasingly eco-conscious, consumers are seemingly keen to swap out their ‘usual’ and try new natural formats, such as the latest craze for natural deodorants. According to Grand View Research, 16% of men and 14% of women globally experience skin irritation caused by deodorants and anti-perspirants, which seems to be the key driver behind increasing use of natural deodorants. The organic deodorant market share is due reach 158.5 million USD by 2025, increasing at a CAGR of 14.1% during this period.

NB: before we go into the main body of this blog, I feel it is important to highlight the difference in deodorant and anti-perspirant as we will solely be focusing on one:

• Deodorant – a product which is created to reduce body odour

• Anti-perspirant – a product which is created to prevent and reduce body sweat

So, what is a natural deodorant?

The main difference between a classic anti-perspirant and a natural deodorant is that the latter not Aluminium based. The use of Aluminium Chlorohydrate and Aluminium Zirconium in classic formulas has been proven to block sweat ducts under our armpits. The reduction of (sweat) wetness helps to minimise body odour by preventing bacteria that feeds on sweat (which causes the odour). Although these will be seen as ideal outcomes, blocking up our pores can actually make our odour issues worse. Whilst the pores are clogged, sweat builds up under our skin which causes an increase in bad bacteria (which likes to feed on sweat) and this is what can make our sweat smell even worse than before.

There have also been suggested links to Aluminium increasing the risk of Breast Cancer and Alzheimer’s, but this has not been proven with sufficient evidence.

Natural deodorants work to reduce smell and focus less on reducing the amount we sweat. They are created using mainly natural ingredients and without Aluminium, so are our armpits are still able to sweat BUT the formula neutralises bacteria build up and masks the body odour. Immediately, we hear alarm bells ringing in everyone’s head of ‘but won’t I dramatically sweat out of my armpits?!’. Consumer reviews find that many post-swap have actually sweated less than previously, as their armpits have adjusted well to not having harsh chemicals on this sensitive area.

What are the benefits of a natural deodorant?

• Simple ingredients – standard anti-perspirants are filled with chemicals which a lot of consumers would consider as man-made and unnatural. Ingredients such as Silica and Parabens, which can irritate sensitive skin, are often replaced with common ingredients such as Coconut Oil and Baking Powder to neutralise odours, absorb moisture, act as antibacterial agents and not block pores (ideal!)

• Moisturising – commonly containing a plant-based moisturiser, natural deodorants will help soothe and moisturise the delicate skin under our arms whilst minimising irritation which can be caused via things such as motion or clothes friction.

• Reduces razor burn – natural deodorants often contain soothing and pore-shrinking ingredients such as Witch Hazel, which will to prevent razor burn and protect underarms for future shaves.

• Clear pores – natural deodorants naturally keep pores open and let our skin breathe! Whilst standard anti-perspirants will block our pores to prevent us from sweating, natural deodorants actually work the opposite: by neutralising the bacteria rather than blocking pores and natural sweat, they are reducing actual body odour.

• No stains – Aluminium causes reactions with common fabrics which we wear. This leaves unsightly stains on items of our clothing (how irritating is the white anti-perspirant disaster on a black item of clothing!)

Are there any disadvantages to using a natural deodorant?

Now as much as we would all love to make any change possible to help our environment (and our conscience) there are some ‘disadvantages’ of swapping your usual anti-perspirant or deodorant for a natural one are:

• They do not control sweating as the ingredients do not block pores. This often means you have to let your armpits adjust and re-balance which may mean walking around with damp pits for a couple of weeks…

• They will not have as strong odour preventing power which some consumers will not be comfortable with

• As natural formulas tend to be softer and oilier, there is a risk that these will still show on some clothing in the armpit area

• Natural products tend to be more expensive, and sometimes the £1 anti-perspirant is just too tempting!

So now you know the pros and cons with natural deodorants, combined with the growing desire to care for the environment and our bodies… will you be making the swap anytime soon?

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

WHY IS YOUR SKIN MICROBIOME SO IMPORTANT?

We’re living in an increasingly safe and conscious society. It is routine to regularly use bacteria and virus killing products, but how are these harsh products disturbing our skin, and the micro-organisms living on it? Thanks to new research developments, the microbiome has become a hot topic in skincare.

What exactly is our microbiome?

The skin's microbiome is the entirety of micro-organisms - bacteria, fungus, virus -living on the human body. It plays a protective role and is an integral part of the barrier function of our skin.

You need a balance of micro-organisms living on the skins surface in order to maintain its condition. Lack of diversity in the skin biome is believed to be connected to skin conditions, such as eczema, acne and rosacea.

And this balance changes throughout our lives. Babies and children (up to the 10 years) have a completely different make up to adults. In a recent article Kimberly Capone, Ph.D., Head of the Microbiome Platform, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Health ran a decade long research programme on 30 mothers and their 31 children and established that that amongst other things, adults have a lot more lipids in their microbiome mix.

As shared in our previous blog on WHY SOAPS ARE MAKING A COMEBACK, we know that COVID 19 is wrapped in a lipid envelope and attaches itself, magnet like to other to lipids. The fact that adults naturally have more lipids in their microbiome make up, could explain why a lot more adults, than kids, are infected.

Skincare Buzz

Probiotic skincare has been trending in the beauty industry for many years now and finally, momentum is beginning to build, thanks to scientific advancements and, perhaps more recently, COVID-19 in piquing our interest in bacteria and bugs! Nourishing and protecting our skin has not been so high on consumers agenda’s as it is today. But what are the options when looking to include a microbiome friendly product?

Multi-biotic skincare explained

• Pro-biotics - are probably the most well-known ‘friendly bacteria’ that we often hear about on TV as being good for our gut, but what affect does it have on our skin? Probiotics actually play a crucial role in stabilising the microbiome, creating an optimal environment for the good bugs. This helps them to form a shield to protect against bad bacteria and helps with other skin concerns such as preventing premature aging and reducing inflammation. It can also balance the skin to fight against acne causing bacteria, useful for those who have acne prone skin.

• Pre-biotics - are substances on the skin that support the growth of probiotics which in turn helps to create a healthy environment for the skin microbiome.

• Post-biotics - are the by-products that probiotics generate as they break down on and within skin’s surface. Postbiotics - enzymes, organic acids, polysaccharides, peptides — are powerful molecules that further reinforce your skin’s healthy barrier.

Microbiome vs our environment

Humans have gone from being well in touch with nature, to living predominantly indoors. We’re moving further away from personal hygiene and more into sterilisation. This makes us question, what effect is this having on our microbiome?

We’ve learned that a well-balanced micro-biome means that skin can protect itself from harmful invaders. However, our obsession with cleaning and hygiene has led to massive changes in the skin microbiome and harsher conditions for germs to thrive on. It is widely accepted that we have gradually lost strains of some bacteria from our microbiome. Studies have shown on uncontacted tribes around the world, bacteria exists that the rest of the world has lost. Correlating to this, these tribes don’t have the same incidences of acne, eczema, or other inflammatory conditions.

Technology to understand skin’s microbiome is only about 15 years old, so research is still at the very beginning. It is predicted that we will start to see a shift in the way we think about cleanliness and bacteria, which conflicts with current advice and way of living.

It took thousands of years for our microbiome to evolve to the point it was before and so the bigger question to ask is if our borderline sterile lifestyles are now doing us longer-term harm?

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

Why haircare moved from a functional to a trend-led beauty category

The beauty industry, like every other, faced some huge challenges and consumer behaviour shifts in 2020.

From booming skincare to struggling cosmetic colour, from DIY nails and brows to at home self care - there were beauty categories that performed well under lockdown, and others that struggled. As time passes, more statistics are being released which highlight these changes in sales trends, demonstrating why haircare became a more trend focused beauty category.

So what are the dynamics within the hair category that are driving consumer engagement? We have identified 3 key drivers: Lockdown Trends, Social Media Buzz and NPD Trends:

Lockdown Hair Trends

Clearpay (a buy now pay later platform) released data on the best selling beauty products in the UK from April-June 2020 and found that a Hair Perfector treatment by Olaplex was the best selling beauty product through their platform during that period. The brands Shampoo and Conditioner bundle was also in the top 10. It seems that when we couldn’t get to salons for our usual hair treatments, we sought refuge in treatments that helped us forget for a moment our roots, grey hair, and split end misery. The goal was healthy hair as we took a break from our usual styling, and treated our hair as part of at-home selfcare regimes.

Alongside pampering hair treatments, many of us reached for the hair dye in lockdown. Superdrug reported a +76% increase in its hair category sales in the early period of the UK CV-19 pandemic, with a boom in home hair dye sales. Pink hair in particular dominated, as we became more experimental while tucked away at home. The DIY beauty trend was a key influence in the haircare category, and if consumers achieved good results with home hair colour then this may continue post-lockdown.

Social Media Buzz

Many hair brands are successfully using social media to create huge buzz about their products, particularly with compelling consumer before/after reviews. In fact, with hero products brands can be built in this space. In 2018 the Coco & Eve Like a Virgin hair mask was inescapable on Instagram, promising hair would be transformed in just 10 minutes and using video content to showcase results.

This isn’t just applicable to hair (Sand and Sky also achieved this with their pink face mask). But with the instant results that some hair products can achieve, social media is a great platform for hair brands in particular, and in 2020 many of us had a bit more time on our hands to research these brands we might not have engaged with before.

Hair influencers and bloggers can create huge followings by offering users styling and haircare tips, and product reviews. Accounts such as @sarahanguis, @Niathelight and @chimmedwards help share knowledge and education on style and care, particularly for specific hair types such as natural, curly hair. In the circumstances of 2020, brands like @joshwoodcolour also successfully used social media to support consumers with home hair colour tips, consultations and treatments. Social media is a great platform for hair, and where new / smaller brands can really drive engagement with the right content.

NPD Trends

Compelling active ingredients and innovative claims has been termed the “skinification” of hair, with treatments and conditioning evolving to showcase new generation tech. Increasingly, skincare brands are expanding out into the hair and scalp treatment market (hello Inkey List!), showcasing their skin and ingredient expertise within new haircare ranges. These are just some of the product stories which are driving interest in the haircare market:

• Waterless Hair - WGSN forecasted that with the future concerns for water shortages, “innovation around reducing water usage in beauty products can offer new opportunities for product development”. Whether its easy rinse formulations that need less water, or products that keep hair cleaner for longer, NPD will continue to evolve in this area. Aveda recently released their Foam Reset Rinseless Cleanser, to cleanse, hydrate and condition in between washes, cutting down wash days and water use. The new Omorovicza Scalp Reviver is also designed to revive hair in between washes

• Natural Oils - Whether its Avocado, Argan, Rosemary, Peppermint or Black Seed, natural ingredients (especially oils) are a leading hair treatment trend to keep locks shiny and healthy

• Scalp Treatments - Haircare has become multi-step, from pre-wash treatments to serums. In particular, “scalp care” is the new skincare, with a huge array of treatment offers which promise to exfoliate, treat itching, flaking or irritation, and promote healthy hair growth

• Scrubs: As well as face and body scrubs, hair can also now be exfoliated with formats from brands like Biolage. As well as treating the scalp, they are used to remove the buildup of product in hair to promote health and shine

• Caffeine - Marketed as helping to increase blood circulation to promote healthy hair follicles, Caffeine is found in numerous hair treatments to support hair growth. Although this ingredient story has been around for some time, launches continue to utilise this hair hero ingredient

• Salicylic Acid - Many skincare enthusiasts will be used to using Salicyclic Acid in their skincare routines, but its also often added in shampoos and scalp treatments. It’s marketed to remove dead skin cells and flakes, and treat itching and dandruff

• Solid Bars - From Lush to Ethique, shampoo bars are moving from niche to mainstream, with ever more innovation in this area. With zero plastic packaging, an increased number of washes per purchase vs shampoo bottles, and skincare-style ingredients, solid bars create a compelling case for consumer trial. As long as they are easy to store and use, and deliver great results, then this area of the hair market will thrive

Hair has had a lot of focus in 2020 for both good and bad reasons. When the 2020 pandemic kept us away from hairdressers, many of us realised how much we relied on our hair to help us feel good. However, it was also an opportunity to focus not just on colour, but on giving our hair and scalp a little TLC with healthy hair and scalp treatments, skincare inspired ingredients and new regimes. Will this continue? With all the innovation in this market it will be hard for consumers not to be tempted by trialling something new in this category going forward.

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH

image Lesley @freshlenghts

The diversity dig the beauty industry needed

Whether or not as industry specialists or beauty brands we thought we were doing enough to represent true diversity, it has become evident via recent movements that we are not.

When social injustices take place, it is a bleak, but truthful reminder that things need to be frantically and dramatically improved. The Black Lives Matter movement resulted in man of us striving to educate ourselves on subjects we may have been unaware of and in this blog, we would like to discuss how, although it might seem an unimportant industry to focus on, beauty is a symbol of power and has the ability to incite change.

With huge names such as Naomi Campbell (who was the first black model to appear on the cover of Vogue France and Time Magazine) stating “…now the whole world is on the same page. The voices are coming out now... and I look at that with optimism that we will get our change…we spend a lot of money. We are big consumers” when discussing how companies were now likely to finally expand their cosmetic range skin tone offering – it would seem that eyes are finally being opened wide and with the recent reckoning for greater representation, brands are ready to define a new beauty era.

Over the past few weeks, we have seen many of our loved beauty brands making generous donations to various charities and pledging to make changes within their structures. Key examples are:

Glossier

• One of the first brands to pledge their support, they donated $500,00 across Black Lives Matter, The NAACP Legal Defense, and Education Fund, The Equal Injustice Initiative, The Marsha P. Johnson Institute, and We The Protesters

Anastasia Beverly Hills

• Pledged $1million across Black Lives Matter, The Innocence Project, The NAACP Legal Defence and Education Fund, Black Visions Collective and The Marshall Project

• Discussing internally initiatives that will support black-owner businesses in the beauty industry

The Inkey List

• Donated $100,000 to NAACP Legal Defence and Educational Fund

• Donated £8000 to Voyage Youth

• Have pledged to make partnerships with charities and non-for-profit organisations further to existing partnerships, create new brand initiatives to fight inequality

• Will support their internal team to educate and support initiatives at an individual level and create a company policy to track, measure and sustain anti-racism  

Honest Beauty

• Jessica Alba wrote “Being Honest means talking about the things that hurt, the things that are the most difficult, even when it’s uncomfortable” and donated $100,000 to NAACP Legal Defense and Educational Fund and the Equal Justice Initiative, as well as matching all employee donations made towards civil rights organizations

Quai

• Have committed to provide on-going education and development for their teams as they believe that change starts from within so they will prioritise diversity and inclusion into their culture

• Will use their platform to amplify injustice and black voices, black creators and black organisations to ensure the conversations are not forgotten

• Over the year, will donate $100K this year to organizations that support the Black community and the advancement of an actively anti-racist society, starting with $25K to Black Lives Matter

Many of you have shared your experiences of biased treatment in our stores. We hear you, and we take those accounts seriously. In January 2020, we commissioned a national analysis of racial bias in retail in an effort to provide an unbiased experience for BIPOC clients at Sephora and across the industry. Now we're sharing some of our initial findings and the changes we're making as a first step. We're thrilled that our trade association Rila, diversity expert Diversity Best Practices, and @rei have joined us in supporting this research. Together, we are ready to continue this important work and drive necessary change in our own businesses and across the retail industry as a whole.

It is great to see so many beauty brands, no matter the size, expressing their support and pledging to make a change, but consumers will continue to call on manufacturers and retailers to do even more. Imani Jahann, an East Liberty make up artist, stylist and owner of Imani Jahann Vintage voiced her concerns that “once the hashtags stop trending, things will go back to normal” and that the change the beauty industry needs “has to be structural”. A next step movement which has gained huge traction is the 15% pledge which was created by Aurora James from the stat that nearly 15% of the US population is made up of black people. It has called on major retailers to devote 15% of their in-store shelf space to black-owned brands. Those who take on the pledge have been asked to take ownership of their findings, publish the brand results, and provide an action plan to do better.

The first (and probably most major!) retailer to take the pledge is Sephora who currently report that they offer 7 black-owned brands including: Fenty Beauty, Pat McGrath Labs, Adwoa Beauty and KNC Beauty. The leading beauty retailer confirmed during a press release “this is only the start. We know with over 290 brands we can and will be doing more”- a full FAQ from Sephora about diversity in its product offerings, and its plans to implement the 15% Pledge, can be found here and they share their initial findings and groundwork to change in the Instagram post shown on the left - also linked here. With this being only the start of their commitment in this area, it will be interesting to see how their brand offer is shaped in the future to support this policy.

This has only been a brief look into how beauty brands have reacted to the Black Lives Matter movement and are (finally) making promises to redefine the beauty industry. If you take anything away from this read, we hope that it motivates all of us to think about the responsibility we collectively have to speak out if things do not seem right, or instigate changes where they are needed.  

THE BEAUTY BRAND COACH